How to build a
Hexagonal (six sided) BBQ picnic table
This is the Imperial (ft & ins) version
Click here
for the Metric version
Click here
for helpful user comments and photos
About the lumber sizes.
All dimensions are in inches.
The size of the lumber referred to in his project is
the nominal size which is the size of
the lumber before it is dressed (smooth, gauged, seasoned and/or planed).
When the lumber is dressed, the actual size is then less than the nominal size. For example: 2x6 when dressed may be 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" actual size and 2x4
when dressed may be 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" actual size.
The Actual sizes can vary slightly from area to area but that should not have any effect on the dimensions given
through-out this project. What will vary, depending on the actual size of the lumber, is the gap between each row of table top boards and seat boards.
Update note:
Although many people have undertaken this project successfully,
feedback suggests that some people have had trouble deciphering the angles/dimensions given in some of the drawings.
To address those concerns we have built another hexagonal table and completely rewrote the prose with new drawings, explanations, photos and a video clip.
Click here to go to the
new updated version
Also, additional drawings and information have been added to this page.
|
The lumber cutting list. Seat and tabletop boards.
Use lumber that is suitable for exterior use.
The lumber used for the seat and tabletop boards, in the cutting list below is 2x6 stock.
This lumber is available at most lumber yards.
About the angle cuts: There are two different angle cuts required for this project. One is 30 degrees off square, the other is 60 degrees off square.
To cut the 30 degree angle, simply set the blade on your miter saw to the required angle. The 60 degree angle will have to be cut with a handsaw, as miter saws will not do such a cut.
|
Don't know how to get a 30° or 60° angle?
Click on one of the links below to bring up an angle pattern image. You can then print out that image and use it as a pattern.
30° pattern click here
60° pattern click here
|
The lumber cutting list. Table frame.
The lumber used for the table frame, in the cutting list below is 2x4 stock.
This lumber is available at most lumber yards.
Instructions. Upper and lower frames
Make up both the table top support upper frame (d, d1, d2) and the seat support lower frame (c, c1, c2), on flat ground using the materials in the cutting list above.
The center of both frames should be fixed as shown in drawing below, and the end outer points of the frames (6 each frame) should be equal distances apart.
Nail two metal strap plates to the top side and to the underside of both frames (8 strap plates in all). See drawing below.
Instructions. Seat and table top boards.
Mark out from the center of both frames (measurements shown in diagram below) along
every arm of the two frames. These are used as guides for placing the boards.
Nail the cut tabletop boards (A's) to the upper frame (D's) beginning with the
outer boards (longest boards). Ensure the joins are in the middle of the frame arms and equal distance
from the center point of the frame. Continue around the frame with the next
longest board and so on until the table top is complete.
Do the lower (seat) frame (C's) in the same way using the cut seat boards (B's).
Use 4" galvanized flathead nails to fix the boards to the frame. Drill
nail holes first to keep lumber from splitting.
Instructions. The legs.
Lay the finished table top upside down on even ground.
Position the finished seat frame upside down above the tabletop.
Place packers or blocks under the seat frame until the seat frame sits at the appropriate height.
Position the legs in place as per below drawing. Hold with clamps, drill and bolt.
Eazy with a Z
|