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How to build a Wendy House
This is the metric version    Click here for the ft & inch version
CONTENTS
bullet Page one: The floor and the frame >
bullet Page two: The cladding (siding) and fascia >
bullet Page three: The door, windows, handrail and materials list >

The cladding (siding) and fascia
wendy house for sydney
Other peoples handywork
Step five: The roof nogging and purlins
From 65x46 timber, measure, cut and fix two rows of nogs (p) between the lower rafters (l), one row along the top and one row along the middle as shown in diagram below.

Also using 65x46 timber, fix two rows of purlins (q) on top of the front upper rafters (k). Position as shown in diagram below, with one row at the apex and one row just above the lower rafters (l).


LEGEND:   (see cutting list in   previous page   for timber sizes)
a: joists
b: joists
c: decking
d: bottom plates
e: top plates
f: studs
g: nogs
h: blocking
i: beam support
j: ridge beam
k: rafters
l: lower rafters
m: rafter support
n: lean-to beam
o: posts
p: nogs
q: purlins
s: ridge capping
CL1: rear & side wall cladding
CL2: lean-to roof cladding
CL3: front wall cladding
CL4: rear roof cladding
CL5: front roof cladding
CL6: gable wall cladding


Step six: The wall cladding
Cut six sheets of 2400 x 1200 x 7mm cd (smooth one side) treated plywood to the lengths as shown in the patterns below.


Note: (CL) is short for cladding.

Fix the wall panels (CL1 and CL3) in place so that the bottom of the side and rear panels finish 10mm below the bottom plate. The front panels will need to be checked (marked and cut) around the lower rafters (l). Mark and cut out any windows (you might want to do a fancy shape here), doors or overhanging edges. Nail with 40 or 50mm flathead galvanized nails. Keep the door cutout intact, as this will later become the door.

Next hold the gable side panel (CL6) in place on top of the sidewall panel (CL1), mark to the triangular shape of the gable, cut and fix in place. Insert a length of galvanized horizontal weather-strip flashing so it tucks under the bottom of the gable side panel (CL6), and over the top of the sidewall panel (CL1). See diagram.

Step seven: The roof cladding
The roof plywood panels (CL2, CL5 and CL4) can be fixed in the same way as the wall panels. The roof panels will overhang the perimeter (front, back and sides) by approx. 50mm.

Step eight: The ridge capping, fascia and barge board
The ridge capping, fascia and barge board are (in this case) all the same type of timber, namely 100x25 sawn (rough sawn) treated pine.

The ridge capping is the boards on the ridge of the roof and its purpose is for waterproofing. The fascia and barge board are the boards encompassing the house at the top of the walls tucked under the roof overhang.
The boards along the front and back of the house are called the fascia boards and the boards running up the gable on the sides of the house are called the barge boards. Fix all with 75mm galvanized jolt head nails.

A pattern can be cut into the fascia and barge boards and the shape used is solely a matter of personal preference.

A pattern like this can be made on the fascia and barge boards by using the bottom of a paint tin (or similar) as a template to mark the rounds and then by cutting out with a jigsaw.

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