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How to build a
Wendy House
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This is the ft & inch version
Click here for the metric version
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Step five: The roof blocking and purlins
From 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock, measure, cut and fix two rows of blocks (p) between the lower rafters (l), one row along the top and one row along the middle as shown in diagram below.
Also using 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock, fix two rows of purlins (q) on top of the front upper rafters (k). Position as shown in diagram below, with one row at the apex and one row just above the lower rafters (l).
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| LEGEND: (see cutting list in previous page for lumber sizes) |
a: joists
b: joists
c: decking
d: bottom plates
e: top plates
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f: studs
g: blocking
h: blocks
i: beam support
j: ridge beam
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k: rafters
l: lower rafters
m: rafter support
n: lean-to beam
o: posts
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p: blocking
q: purlins
s: ridge capping
CL1: rear & side wall cladding
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CL2: lean-to roof cladding
CL3: front wall cladding
CL4: rear roof cladding
CL5: front roof cladding
CL6: gable wall cladding
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Step six: The wall cladding
Cut six sheets of 48" x 96" x 9/32" exterior plywood to the lengths as shown in the patterns below.
note: (CL) is short for cladding.
Fix the wall panels (CL1 and CL3) in place so that the bottom of the side and rear panels finish 3/8" below the bottom plate. The front panels will need to be checked (marked and cut) around the lower rafters (l). Mark and cut out any windows (in whatever fancy shape you prefer), doors or overhanging edges. Nail with 2" flathead galvanized nails.
Keep the door cutout intact, as this will later become the door.
Next hold the gable side panel (CL6) in place on top of the sidewall panel (CL1), mark to the triangular shape of the gable, then cut and fix in place.
Insert a length of galvanized horizontal weather-strip flashing
so it tucks under the bottom of the gable side panel (CL6), and over the top of the sidewall panel (CL1). See diagram.
Step seven: The roof cladding
The roof plywood panels (CL2, CL5 and CL4) can be fixed in the same way as the wall panels.
The roof panels will overhang the perimeter (front, back and sides) by approx. 2".
Step eight: The ridge capping, fascia and barge board
The ridge capping, fascia and barge board are (in this case) all the same stock, namely 1x4 sawn (rough sawn) treated lumber.
The term 'ridge capping' refers to the boards on the ridge of the roof and its purpose is for waterproofing.
The fascia and barge board are the boards encompassing the house at the top of the walls which are tucked under the roof overhang. Specifically, the boards along the front and back of the house are called the fascia boards and the boards running up the gable on the sides of the house are called the barge boards.
Fix all with 3" galvanized nails.
Whatever pattern cut into the fascia and barge boards is solely your own personal preference.
A pattern like this can be made on the fascia and barge boards by using the bottom of a paint tin (or similar) as a template to mark the rounds and then by cutting out with a jigsaw.
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