Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Making the window
Section 16.1. Determining the The moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (vertical members), a top rail (horizontal member) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins. size
Note: A window The moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (vertical members), a top rail (horizontal member) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins. is the moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (Plumb, upright. members), a top The top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence. (Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure.) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins.
To determine the sash size, measure the window opening in the wall frame (called the Trim size; The framed-in opening, slightly larger than the actual window/door, that replaces wall studs to support the structure and accommodate a window/door.).
Deduct 3/4″ (19mm) off the height and the width to get the window sash size.
For example: The window opening in the frame is (or should be) 24″ (600mm) high x 32″ (800mm) wide.
Therefore, make the actual window size 23 1/4″ (580mm) high x 31 1/4″ (780mm) wide.
So there should be a maximum 3/8″ (10mm) gap all around the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening..
Note: You can work with a 1/4″ (6mm) gap all around. I just prefer a bigger gap for sheds.
Section 16.2. Making the window sash
Use 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees.
Take a length 10ft (3m) long and make a An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. 1″ x 1″ (25mm x 25mm) down one edge.
Take a length 48″ (1200mm) long and make a rebate 1″ x 1″ (25mm x 25mm) down two adjacent edges.
The rebates can be cut by first marking the rebate lines along the wood, and then setting the blade on your circular saw to a depth of 1″ (25mm) and cutting down the lines.
Save the off-cut piece, as that can be used for the A molding or strip of wood to cover the edge of a window pane and hold it in. to hold the acrylic or glass window panes in place.
Using the wood with a single rebate, cut four pieces, all with a 45 degree angle at both ends.
Make two pieces 31 1/4″ (780mm) long and two pieces 23 1/4″ (580mm) long.
Clamp the pieces side-by-side together (Being even with.) and mark and cut a A U-shaped cutout in a member to house another member. A notch has two sides and can be anywhere along the member except the ends (unlike a rebate that is an L-shaped cut-out with one side and is always at an end or side of a member). in the middle.
Make the notch 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) wide (which is the width of the window cross members) and as deep as the rebate.
Then glue and screw the four pieces together at the corners making a “picture frame”.
Measure across the middle of the window between the side notches and cut the horizontal See Muntin. (horizontal A middle horizontal support piece of wood.) to length.
Then make a notch in the middle each side of the horizontal A strip of wood or member separating and holding panes in a window. bar to house the vertical muntin bar (vertical middle rail).
Fit, glue, and screw the horizontal muntin bar in place.
Then measure and cut the two vertical muntin bars (one top and one bottom of the horizontal muntin).
Fit, glue, and screw the vertical muntin bars in place.
To secure with nails or screws. a corner metal angle to the outside of each corner.
Section 16.3. Painting the window
When the glue has dried, sand the sash ready for painting.
Paint the window sash and the A finishing wood. Fits under the soffit lining and against the cladding..
I used a water-based paint and the color was called “duck-egg blue”.
Section 16.4. Fitting in the window panes
Measure the window areas (four altogether) and have 1/8″ (3mm) thick clear acrylic (plastic) or glass panes cut to fit loosely into each area.
According to the plans you will need four panes 8″ x 12″ (200mm x 300mm) for the window but check just in case.
Place them in the window holes.
Cut the glass The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. to go around the boundary. of the panes and then Toenail. A nail driven at an angle to the member. (toe A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc.) through the glass stop into the surrounding sash frame.
Once the glass stop is fixed around each window area, run a thin Beading. Thin line of sealant. of clear A pliable substance used to seal a surface to prevent passage of a liquid. around the sides and bottom of each Glass or clear sheet acrylic cut in rectangular shapes for the windows..