A 2.4m x 1.2m (inside measurements) inexpensive to make shed
A Hill Lumber project By Les Kenny
The walls are constructed out of 150mm x 19mm x 1800mm fence palings. It’s really just an oblong fence placed on a floor with a roof dropped over the top of it.
It is all made out of fence materials except for some plywood that covers the roof. The walls are basically 4 fence panels made up of 150mm x 19mm x 1800mm fence palings fixed to rails (middle, top, and bottom) just like a real fence. So each wall is pretty much a fence panel. The front, back, and side panels are fixed together at the rails where they overlap in the corners. The shed walls sit on a simple structured floor and are topped with a frame and plywood slanted roof that neatly fits over the top of the walls without the need for fixing.
First up – the plans and required materials. Then we are going to make the floor, followed by the roof, and last but not least we will take on the walls and the doors. And then we are going to knock it all together
Note: In addition to these plans there are other plan drawings at relevant points throughout the instructions.
Materials you will need
In total you will need
All lumber is rough sawn and suitable for exterior use.
• 100×75 – 1 @ 2400.
• 100×50 – 12 @ 4800.
• 150×19 – 76 @ 1800.
• 150×25 – 11 @ 1800.
• 20×20 – 5m.
• 12mm plywood 2 shts.
• Tube of glue.
• Nails (all galvanized flat head) – 1kg 90mm, 1kg 75, 1kg 60mm, 1kg 50mm (you may have some left over.)
Note: Most of the lumber will have to be cut to length (excepting the bulk of the palings) and some will have to be ripped (cut lengthwise), but we will do that as we go.
Lets make the floor
Once the floor is made you can use it as a platform to make the roof.
For the bearers cut 2 pieces of 100×75 @ 1200mm.
For the frame cut 2 pieces of 100×50 @ 1200mm, and 3 pieces at 2400mm less the thickness of the two end joists (so they will be approximately 2200mm long.)
For the floor boards, cut eleven 150 x 25 x 1800 palings down to 1200mm. Use the off-cuts (600mm) for 1/2 floor boards as shown in the floor board plan below.
Now simply follow the plans below and make the floor.
Now the roof
Here’s a couple of pics first to give you a rough idea. I used the floor as a bench. The roof frame (the plates) should overhang the floor by 50mm all the way around.
Cut the pieces from 100×50 stock
Refer to the plan drawing below.
Cut 2 @ 2500 for the front and rear plates.
Cut 1 @ 2500 for the middle nogs (blocking) [D]. And then measure and cut into pieces to fit between the rafters.
Cut 1 @ 2500 and rip it down the middle with the blade angled at 11.3°. Use one piece for the front top batten [C] and the other piece for nogs (blocking) [E].
Cut 2 @ 1300 less the width of two plates (side plates) – so they will be approximately 1100mm long.
Cut 4 @ 1345 for the rafters [B] and angle cut them as shown in the plan drawing below.
Cut 4 @ 210 [A] with one end angled in 11.3 degrees.
Once the pieces are cut you are set to go. Referring to the roof plans in the plans section and the plan drawing above, make up the roof.
Begin by making a rectangle 2500mm x 1300mm with the plates. Next the rafters and props [A] positioned as shown in the plans as that is crucial for placement of the plywood cover. Cut the plywood pieces to fit the rafters. Two pieces 1200 x 1500 long for each side and a couple of 300mm wide off-cuts for the strip in the middle.
Add the cladding and have it run 50mm below the frame. Glue and fix the drip bead along the front.
When done it should look something like this.
Making the walls and door
The walls comprise of two skins (layers) of fence palings fixed to 3 rows of rails. The rails are positioned (height wise) so that the rails of adjacent walls can overlap in the corners and therefore be fixed together at that point.
The back wall
The plan drawings followed by an explanation.
Back wall stage 1
The drawing above is pretty much self explanatory. Fix the 150 x 19 x 1800 palings to the three rows of 50 x 50 x 2400 rails spaced as shown.
Start with the two end palings, make the out side of each paling flush with the ends of the rails. Ensure the rails are spaced as shown. Nail with one nail at each meeting. The plan drawings show the nail spots. Evenly space the other 8 palings and fix them in the same way.
Things to watch: Ensure that the top of the wall is straight and that the wall is square. Measure diagonally from corner to corner both ways. If both diagonal measurements are the same, then the wall is square. If not, then skew the wall until it is square.
Making the wall square
Back wall stage 2
Fix the second skin just as is shown in ‘the second skin‘ drawing above. The nailing spots are also shown.
You will also notice in the drawing that there is a couple of rows of nails that aren’t fixed to rails.
Explanation: They are rows of nails just to hold the boards together to help keep the shed weather proof.
For those rows pre-drill the nail holes first. Use flat head nails that are slightly longer that the thickness of the two boards. The nails will go through the two boards and stick out the other side. Hammer the points over. This locks the two boards together, a bit like rivets.
The side walls
Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the two side walls in the same manner as the back wall –
except for a couple of difference…
1.) The end boards overlap the rails by 20mm each side. Take notice.
2.) The rails on the side walls are a different height than the rails on the front and back walls.
They are positioned so that the rails can overlap in the corners.
The picture below shows how the rails overlap in the corners.
Note on the above drawing that the two end boards overlap the rails by 20mm
The front wall
Make up the front wall in the same manner as ‘the back wall’. The frame is a little different but the method is the same.
Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the door in the same manner as the walls were made.
Let’s put it all together
Just follow the sequence of photos.
Position the floor. Place the back wall with the bottom rail sitting hard on the floor, flush both ends. Place the side wall with the bottom rail packed 50mm up off the floor. The back wall rails and the side wall rails will overlap in the corner. You can bolt or screw them together.
Add the other side wall.
Add the front wall. Once the walls are fixed in place, you can cut out the bottom rail in the doorway.
Have some strong people help you lift the roof on. It will sit neatly in place and will not need to be fixed. Put hinges on the doors and fit them.
Just a bit of a tidy up. Add some corner flashings or battens to the corners to help make it weather proof.
About the author
Les Kenny with a background in building, has been authoring DIY projects for his website www.buildeazy.com since 2001. He wrote two “DIY for Kids” books (co-authored with his daughter Roseanne) published in 2004 and 2005 respectively by Harpercollins.
www.buildeazy.com is populated with his work.
This content was authored specifically for Hill Lumber. © All rights reserved