How to make
A Shed Door
Page 7 of 7
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2.) It makes for a neater astragal finish. The astragal is the molding that covers the gap between a pair of doors when closed. The astragal is fixed vertically to the back of the outer edge on one of the doors. It also stops or limits draughts and rain.
Also... Hinging the doors to the surrounding trim (door casing) allows for the doors to be able to open 180°.
Use 150x25 (1x6) tongue-and-groove lumber for the vertical door slats and 100x25 (1x4) for the door bracing.
Use a lumber suitable for exterior applications such as cedar or treated pine.
Step one. Cut 10 T&G (tongue-and-groove) door slats [d1] 2250mm (90") long.
Step two. On an even surface join five slats [d1] together with the face (best side) up forming a rectangular panel.
The width of the rectangular panel will be wider than the required door width at this stage.
Step three. Cut three pieces of 100x25 (1x4) horizontal braces [d2] the same width as the rectangular panel,
arrange them in their right places
and screw them to the
door slates. Refer to fig.1 for the placement of the horizontal braces.
Use wood screws suitable for exterior use and of a length just slightly
less that the thickness of the brace and slat combined.
Step four. Turn the rectangular panel over. Measure and mark the required door width central on the panel and cut off (rip down) the
excess each side.
Step five. Cut off the top 45° corner.
Step six. Turn the panel over. Measure, mark, cut and screw in place the three 100x25 (1x4) angled braces [d2].
Door one is finished.
Step seven. Make a second door the same as the first by repeating steps two-thru-six and use fig.1
NOTE: Make the second door a mirror image of the first, that means that the top 45° corner on the second door will be opposite to that of the first.
Use the fig.1 dimensions as a guide only. The exact door measurements should be taken from the door opening (rough opening) in the
wall frame once the shed shell (frame, siding, roof) is complete. Allow 6mm (1/4") gap between the door and frame all the way around and between the two doors.
Step eight. Add the hinges to the horizontal braces on the doors and then 'hang' the doors in place by fastening the loose ends of the hinges
to the trim surrounding the door opening (see picture at the top of the page).
Step nine. Fix 50x25 (1x2) molding (door stop) to the jamb
around the inside perimeter of the door/s to cover the gap between the door edge and the jamb.
NOTE: Do not fix the door stop tight against the door on the hinged edges. A little bit of play is needed to ensure the edge of the door does not bind
against the door stop when the door is being opened or closed.
Step ten. Fix a length of 50x25 (1x2) wood [d3] (the astragal)
vertically to the back of the outer edge
on one of the doors. (see fig.2)
Final note. Wind: It is presumed that this shed will be tucked away in a sheltered part of the back yard without any real concern about the wind, and because it is a heavy and solid structure, it is highly unlikely that it is going to blow away under normal conditions.
If the shed is situated in a windy area and there are concerns, then additional securing measures should be taken. The shed will need to be fastened against uplift.
1.) Concrete a pile or post into the ground under each corner of the shed and fasten to the bottom plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
2.) At each corner fasten the bottom plate to the stud with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
3.) At each corner fasten the stud to the top plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
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