Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
Using clean 3/16″ (4mm) thick A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. we cut four pieces 38″ (950mm) long x 10″ (250mm) high, one for each side of the head. Each piece was held against a side of the head, the curved line of the roof edge was scribed (marked) onto that piece of plywood, and then cut.
The trim around the side-covers
I managed to source some 1/4″ (6mm) and 3/8″ (10mm) thick bullnose (rounded one edge) cedar, from which I was able to A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) the required widths for the The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens. that I used around the head side-covers. Mind you, even if I had only been able to get rectangular profiled Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees (probably more common), I could’ve still sanded the edges round.
I bent the trim to the curve of the side-covers using clamps, and blocks of wood, and anything else needed to do the trick to hold them in place.
Would they stay bent the next day when I took the clamps off?
The following day – I released the clamps to find that the wood had only bent marginally.
I put the clamps back on and poured boiling water over the bent pieces, about 5 larger-sized pots. Then left the wood as it was (still clamped) out in the weather for a couple of days.
Then when the clamps came off? The curves were over 90% or the required shape. That was good enough.