Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Making the rose pattern
To mark out all the circumferences I made a compass in the form of a strip of Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees with 7 holes drilled along it. Each hole represented a center point for a particular circumference.
The piece of wood that I used to make the compass was a piece of 1″ (25mm) wide x 1/4″ (6mm) thick strip of wood 12″ (300mm) long.
By sticking a A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. through one of the holes in the compass (the strip of wood) and tapping it (the nail) a little way into the A special type of tempered hardboard with a fine, smooth finish. MDF is used in cabinet making. A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide., a required circumference could be drawn by holding a pencil at the end of the wood and turning it in a circle using the nail as the axis point.
For the main circle piece I drew 5 circles, each with the following radius:
● The circle with the 10″ (250mm) radius marked the edge of the main circle piece: the cut-off line.
● The circle with the 9 1/4″ (230mm) radius marked the ends of the slots.
● The circle with the 9″ (225mm) radius marked the points for drilling at the end of the slots where the circle line crossed the radius lines.
● The circle with the 6 13/16″ (169mm) radius marked the points for drilling at the beginning of the slots where the circle line crossed the radius lines.
● The circle with the 6 5/8″ (165mm) radius marked the beginning of the slots.