Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Making the rose pattern
To mark out all the circumferences I made a compass in the form of a strip of wood with 7 holes drilled along it. Each hole represented a center point for a particular circumference.
The piece of wood that I used to make the compass was a piece of 1″ (25mm) wide x 1/4″ (6mm) thick strip of wood 12″ (300mm) long.
By sticking a nail through one of the holes in the compass (the strip of wood) and tapping it (the nail) a little way into the mdf board, a required circumference could be drawn by holding a pencil at the end of the wood and turning it in a circle using the nail as the axis point.
For the main circle piece I drew 5 circles, each with the following radius:
● The circle with the 10″ (250mm) radius marked the edge of the main circle piece: the cut-off line.
● The circle with the 9 1/4″ (230mm) radius marked the ends of the slots.
● The circle with the 9″ (225mm) radius marked the points for drilling at the end of the slots where the circle line crossed the radius lines.
● The circle with the 6 13/16″ (169mm) radius marked the points for drilling at the beginning of the slots where the circle line crossed the radius lines.
● The circle with the 6 5/8″ (165mm) radius marked the beginning of the slots.