Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
Then I drew 32 straight lines (diameters), evenly spread running from one side of the circle to the other side, passing through the center point.
I began by drawing two diameters at right angles to one another. Then I drew another two in the middle of those, making 4 diameter lines.
Then I drew another 4 in the middle of those, making 8 evenly spaced diameter lines.
Then I drew another 8 in the middle of those, making 16 evenly spaced diameter lines.
Then I drew another 16 in the middle of those, making 32 evenly spaced diameter lines. And that was enough. That meant that there were 64 evenly spaced lines (radii) running from the center to the edge of the circle (circumference).
The circle with the 9″ (225mm) radius and the circle with the 6 13/16″ (169mm) radius marked the drilling points where they crossed the radius lines.
At those points I made an indent in the A special type of tempered hardboard with a fine, smooth finish. MDF is used in cabinet making. A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. with a center punch, giving a starting guide for the drill bit.
I used a 3/8″ (10mm) drill bit for the 64 outer holes and a 5/16″ (8mm) drill bit for the 64 inner (closest to the center) holes.
Each pair of holes along the radius lines marked the length and width of a slot (yet to be cut).
I joined the outside edges of each pair of holes with a couple of straight lines.
I cut along those lines with a jig-saw creating a slot.
And so on and so on until all 64 slots were cut.