Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 4.2. Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees for the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening. and windows
I bought the following wood for the door and two windows:
● 13½ft (4m) of 1½” x 7¼” (180mm x 39m) cedar for the bottom rails
● 47ft (14m) of 1½” x 2 5/8″ (65mm x 39mm) cedar for the top rails and side stiles.
● and 110ft (33m) of 1½” x ¾” (40mm x 18mm) cedar for the A strip of wood or member separating and holding panes in a window. bars.
I ripped the latter in half to make ¾” x ¾” (18mm x 18mm) muntin bars (to make up the grids).
Cutting the side stiles
The side stiles are the Plumb, upright. members of the door and windows.
Out of 1½” x 2 5/8″ (65mm x 39mm) cedar, I cut 6 pieces @ 74¾” (1870mm) long. Two for each door/window unit.
Cutting the top rails
The top The top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence. is the Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure. at the top of the door/window.
Out of 1½” x 2 5/8″ (65mm x 39mm) cedar I cut 3 pieces @ 21 5/8″;” (540mm) long: one for each door/window unit.
Cutting the bottom rails
The bottom rail is the horizontal member at the bottom of the door/window.
Out of 1½” x 7½” (180mm x 39m) cedar, I cut 6 pieces @ 21 5/8″;” (540mm) long: two for each door/window unit.
The bottom rail needed to be 13″ (325mm) wide. To achieve that width I joined two pieces of 1½” x 7¼” (180mm x 39m) cedar together and cut off the excess to form 1 piece that was the required width.
Cutting the muntin bars
The muntin bars are the strips of wood that make up the grille (grid).
Out of ¾” x ¾” (18mm x 18mm) cedar, I cut 42 pieces @ 21 5/8″;” (540mm) long and 24 pieces @ 59¼” (1480mm) long.
That was the amount for 6 grids, two for each door/window.
Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
I cut the stiles and top and bottom rails. For the bottom rails I joined two pieces together and cut off the excess to achieve a width of 13″ (325mm).
I then glued and nailed the side stiles to the top and bottom rails. I made up three units in all.