(9 customer reviews)
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Sawhorse plans. 11 pages – $5.00 USD

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9 reviews for Sawhorse

4.7 out of 5
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    Hello. I made a pair of these saw horses last summer , using your plans.
    I used tanalised timber – 95 x 45 for the legs, 145 x 45 for the tops and 18mm ply for the ends. 75mm ring nails to attach the legs , 50mm ring nails for the ends and lots of P/U glue.
    They are very sturdy , you can stand right on the ends and they will not tip.
    I made a pair of saw horses years ago but did’nt splay the legs in both directions (probably put off by the compound mitres) – Don’t go down this route, these are a lot sturdier and more stable.( Traditional designs always work the best) .
    Very easy to make if you own a compound mitre saw. (for the leg cuts and the cutouts) .
    I glued and nailed the legs on a flat bit of concrete, then put a concrete block on top while the glue set overnight, (in case the legs were a bit out) ,trimmed and cleaned them up the next day. Turned out alright.

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    Attached is a photo of sawhorses made according to your plans. I used screws for extra care.
    Andrew Legun

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    Hi, after looking around for a simple, easy to follow plan for a saw horse, I was really happy to finally find your plans online. This was a fun and easy weekend project. The saw horses will be used while painting my sailing dinghy this summer.
    I used off-cuts from scrap timber so the only cost was the hard ware. So thanks! Ps they came out 100% level with no last minute adjustments! Legend! Cheers.
    Alistair Walling, Auck. NZ

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    Hello I followed your plans but for the top laminated to 90×45 and stood them upright and made it 1200mm long they were level when finished no tweaking needed very heavy duty and will last a lifetime thank you so much from Australia

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    Thank you for putting this out there. Simple, clear instructions. Everything worked perfectly. I made two in an afternoon and used up some offcuts from our house extension.

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    Hello from N.Z.
    I use tanalized timber as per the list of “ you will need “ required to build these saw horses.
    My mitre saw was set up ( using clamps to position the leg) to cut the 20 deg cuts at the top of the legs and Also for the compound cuts at the bottom of the legs.
    I followed the instructions throughout the build …. with two additions:
    1. I attached the legs with 70 mm Square drive wood screws .
    2. Attached 3 legs and ensured all was level before Screwing / attaching the 4 th leg.
    The end result is A strong solid set of saw horses. Now making a second set.
    Thank you for making the instructions available to all.
    Cheers Ken

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    Nice design. People need to know, though, that this is not a project for novices. It takes a pretty high level of manual skill in the use of hand tools. If you don’t have a chop saw or a compound mitre saw, you are in for a lot of sawing. Especially so given that you generally need two sawhorses. So you’re going to be cutting eight legs multiple times.

    Another thing: I think the legs need to be longer. 27” makes for a very low sawhorse unless you are not tall. I’m only 5’11” and I will have backache if I work on these for any length of time. I will probably make another longer set of legs, which is why I haven’t glued the first set.

    Tips: I used a cordless Sawzall with a fine-tooth blade (hacksaw blade works fine) to cut the angles on the tops of the legs (a radial arm saw won’t make angles that fine) and to make the first angled edge cuts for the rebating.

    Also, I didn’t use the multiple cut and chisel method for cleaning out the rebates. I just used a router to clear a portion wide enough for the Sawzall to get in, then used it to make a horizontal cut to left and right to clean out the entire rebate. It made a clean job and saved a lot of time.

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    thanks! looks like easy to follow plans, except for one thing – I don’t have a sawhorse to work on!
    Looks like a chicken or the egg thing, but I do have a bench so it shouldn’t be a problem.

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    Ben Cooper

    great plans – thanks for posting

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