Building the Steps Cont...
Step 5: Now that we have the tread lines marked out on the stringers, we need to notch
(check out, rebate) them. This can be achieved by setting the blade depth on our circular
saw approximately 12mm (1/2") and making repeated cuts along and between the tread
markings on the stringers. See diagram below. fig.6
Repeat this action to all tread markings on both stringers.
Finish by chiseling out the grooves with a sharp chisel. The more saw cuts, the
easier the chiseling.
Step 6: Cut all tread lumber, 150x50 (2x6), to the required length, in this case 832mm (34"), 10 in all, 2 per tread.
Step 7: Lay one of the stringers on even ground or the floor and insert the treads into the rebated grooves. fig.7
Step 8: Place the other stringer on top of the treads mirroring the bottom stringer.
Nail through the stringer into the treads using 100mm (4") or 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails. 3 nails per side per piece of tread timber. see fig.8
Step 9: Cut riser boards and nail against back of treads. see fig.9
Step 10: Fix the steps in place. Nail the top of the stringers to the deck structure.
Temporarily pack with blocks of wood under the bottom tread until treads are level.
Dig a hole 250x250x250 (10"x10"x10") under each stringer and fill with concrete. Place a galvanized wire or bracket into the wet concrete against the two stringers.
When the concrete has cured place a piece of damp course membrane, melthoid or similar under the
stringer and on top of the concrete pad. This prevents moisture from the concrete pad going to the lumber. See fig.10
Remove temporary packers from under bottom tread and nail or staple the galvanized wire or bracket to the stringers.
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Thank you for this info as I am not a carpenter. This will help me build my porch with confidence and know it will be safe and sturdy with a lot of use.
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