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Making a Pipe and Mesh Fence
mesh and pipe fence
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How to make a pipe and chain-link mesh fence page:   1   2   3   4
bullet Page one: Preparation, holes dug and posts concreted in
bullet Page two: Wire strained and fastened
bullet Page three: Mesh laid, stretched and fastened
bullet Page four: The finished fence
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This project is from the House and Property Makeover series.
We already had a hedge around the property boundary but still needed a fence to make a safe enclosure for the dog and grandkids. We opted for a 900mm (3ft) high chain-link mesh and pipe fence so that eventually the hedge would grow through the fence and make it almost invisible. This entailed cutting one side of the hedge away to allow the fence to be positioned as close to the hedge trunks as possible.
This is how the fence was made...

cutting the hedge back for the mesh and pipe fence
Hedge cut back

One side of the hedge was cut back as near as possible to the hedge trunks to make way for the fence.

Having the fence line close to hedge trunks will allow the hedge to eventually grow through the mesh.

The fence would then be buried in the hedge and practically invisible.

mesh and pipe fence holes dug for the posts Post holes marked and dug

A string line was put up to establish the fence line.

The post hole positions were marked and dug to a depth of 600mm (2ft).

The distance between each hole was a maximum of 3000mm (10ft). One or two had to be slightly repositioned along the fence line so as not to be over a major trunk root.

The ground was firm and there was no frost line to worry about.

mesh and pipe fence posts concreted in place Posts lined up and concreted in

The end posts and the corner posts (with their braces attached) were placed into their respective holes and hammered a few inches further into the ground until the posts were at the right height and also plumb.

A string line was put up from corner post to corner post, to established a straight line and correct height for the intermediate posts.

The intermediate posts were placed into the holes positioned plumb (upright) and not quite touching the string line. They were then hammered further into the ground until the posts were at the right height and able to stand up without support.

Concrete was poured into the holes. The posts were again checked to ensure they were plumb before being left for a few days to allow the concrete to cure.

the mesh fence brace is connected to the post with couplings Posts and post bracing

The end and corner posts and braces were 40mm (1 1/2") inside diameter galvanized pipe.
The intermediate posts were 32mm (1 1/4") inside diameter galvanized pipe.

The posts were 1700mm (5' 8") long, allowing for 950mm (3' 2") above the ground, 600mm (2ft) into the post hole and another 150mm (6") into the ground.
The posts came cut to length and each post had two 3mm (1/8") holes already drilled for the tie wire to go through and wrap around the line wire.
One hole was 25mm (1") down from the top of the post and the second hole was 875mm (35") below that, approximately 50mm (2") above ground.

The corner posts and end posts had braces which were also 40mm (1 1/2") inside diameter galvanized pipe.

The braces were secured to the top part of the end posts with galvanized 'T' fittings and to the corner posts with adjustable corner fittings.
galvanized pipe and mesh fence

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