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How to build a Lean-to Pergola with a pvc/polycarbonate type roof.

The pergola in this example is 9m (30ft) long x 2.4m (8ft) wide.

The project is broken into sections (pages) which include working plans, construction details, roof details, and materials. Each section contains it's own instructions and diagrams etc.

The lumber list is at bottom of this page.

The plans
The plans for the lean-to pergola. An example of working plans for a lean-to pergola and roof, 9m (30ft) long x 2.4m (8ft) wide. more >>>

The construction
This page shows construction details for making the pergola frame along with variations on how to fix the pergola roof frame to the eaves or house. more >>>

The roof
This page shows how to fix roofing sheets and explains different types of roofing. more >>>

Lumber required for the lean-to pergola

100x50 (2x4) suitable for exterior use rafters 13 @ 2.4m (8ft); purlins and ledger 50m (166ft) 82m (270ft)
100x100 (4x4) suitable for exterior use posts 5 @ 3m (10ft) 15m (50ft)
200x50 (2x8) suitable for exterior use Beam 2 @ 4.5m (15ft) 9m (30ft)
150x25 (1x6) fascia bd front fascia bd and side barge bd. 18m (60ft)

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User comments
I have generally followed this plan over an existing pergola, with modifications to suit my situation.
This site was the most helpful I have found.
For purlins (nogs) I reused existing 2x2s across the top of the rafters, planning to fix the Suntuf sheets to them directly.
This plan does not address painting, but I would observe that it is a helluva lot easier to paint structural wood components before installation. Most of the structure is the typical outdoor white.
Cut the rafters, angle the ends, and paint them on the ground, to save a lot of work.
After hammering or bolting the steel anchors and truss ties, I hit them with some white spray primer to hide the nail heads and hammer marks.
I am using the smoked gray Suntuf, and I wish I had painted the purlins more of a matching gray color (instead of white) before screwing them down to the rafters. I would prefer the purlins to fade out of view against the polycarb sheets.
The plan and equipment list make no mention of the foam closure strips offered by Suntuf, to match the contour of the sheets across the top of the purlins. I am planning to use them, hopefully to provide some noise damping, and wonder if paint will have any effect on them. They are supplied in bright white, which would upset my gray "camouflage" scheme.
Also, the closure strips are very lightweight and make placing the sheets difficult, especially if you are doing this singlehandedly. A couple little folded pieces of duct tape keep them on the purlin when sliding the sheet into place.
David H. Shoup

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