Table of Contents
- 1Build a playhouse by Les Kenny
- 2Identifying the members
- 3Lumber and materials information
- 4Shopping and Cutting lists
- 5Plans - Footprint and front elevation
- 6Plans - Rear and Side Elevation
- 7Plans - Roof, cuts and angles
- 8Making a wood floor
- 9Making a concrete floor
- 10Making the playhouse wall frames
- 11Making the playhouse roof frame
- 12Putting on the playhouse roof cover
- 13Putting on the playhouse wall cover
- 14Making the door
- 15Making the playhouse door frame
- 16Installing the playhouse door
- 17How to make a playhouse window
- 18Making the window sash
- 19Installing the playhouse window
- 20Playhouse Gable and Soffit
- 21Inside finishing
Making the A small house for children to play in. roof frame
Refer to the ‘Frame Cutting List’ and The ‘Roof, Cuts and Angles’ to cut all the pieces required for the roof frame.
The roof frame pieces comprise of 1 The horizontal line at the top of opposing sloping sides of a roof running parallel with the building length. A supporting member., 2 lower Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. roof frame members, 2 ridge beam supports, 10 common rafters, 4 fly rafters, 10 A standard or most commonly used parallel member of a roof that supports the roofing boards. It slopes from the ridge to the top wall plate. attachments and also the pieces required to make the two The roof ends and walls that form an inverted "V". trusses.
Also cut 2 pieces of 300×25 (1×12) Soffit lining. Cladding on the underside of the eaves. 1890mm (75 1/2″) long.
1.) Attach the 10 attachment pieces to the 10 common rafters. They can be fixed using nails and A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. plates. See fig.1.
Make up the two gable trusses. Refer to the The ‘Roof, Cuts and Angles’.
2.) Temporarily clamp the 2 Eaves lining; The underside board of eaves and rakes. boards in place so that they are overhanging outside of the side walls approximately 170 (7″), and overhanging the front and rear walls approximately 45mm (1 3/4″)
To secure with nails or screws. the two Ridge Beam Supports on top of (and in the middle of) the front and rear Wall Frame Top Plates. The Ridge Beam can then be fixed in place on top of the two Beam Supports. Ensure the beam supports are Plumb, upright. and the beam overhang is the same each end. Add a temporary To make rigid.: See fig.2.
3.) Fix the end common rafters to the ridge beam directly above the front and rear walls. DO NOT NAIL THE BOTTOMS OF THE RAFTERS YET.
Fix the two lower roof frame horizontal members to the bottom of the end rafters, one each side. Ensure the overhangs past each Structural member of a roof that supports the roof load and runs from the ridge to the top of the side walls. at each end are equal and they should also be equal to the ridge beam overhang: See fig.3.
Undo the clamps and fix the soffit A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. to the underside of the roof frame horizontal Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure. (one each side). Ensure that the outside edges of the two soffit boards are Being even with. with the outside edge of the two roof frame horizontal members and that the bottoms of the end rafters are 45mm (1 3/4″) in from the ends of the soffit board.
If necessary, move the soffit board so that the opposing overhangs on the wall frames are equal and then nail the soffit board to the The top horizontal framing member of the wall..
4.) Add the intermediate common rafters and the front and rear fly rafters (fig.4). Refer to the The ‘Roof, Cuts and Angles’ for rafter placement.
5.) Add the two gable trusses (one each end) and the Blocks, see Block. between the common rafter and the A projecting rafter of a gable end. (fig.5). Refer to the The ‘Roof, Cuts and Angles’ for blocking placement.