How to build a Greenhouse

Ensure side walls are plumb (vertical)

For all wall framing lumber, use 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.

Cut studs (a) to size and fix in place. They should be 27-1/2" apart to allow for the door.

Cut top plates (b) and (c) to size and fix in place.

Cut bottom plates (d) to size and fix in place.

Measure, cut and fix the bracing members (e) in place.

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STEP 5. The windows


For the windows use 2"x2" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the top and bottom frames and 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the side and middle mullions.

Angle cut the bottom of the window frame 30 degrees (the same pitch as the roof).

Make two windows as per dimensions above. Fix in place with two butt hinges on each window screwed to the top frames of the windows and the window support plate.

Fit a window latch to each window.

Measure, cut and fix a row of nogs* (*blocking, short pieces of lumber set between the rafters) below the window and in between the roof frames as per the above drawing.

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STEP 6. The doors


Make the doors (2, one each end of the green house) as per above dimensions.

Use 2"x2" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the frames and cut the gussets from 3/8" treated plywood.

Make the door frames up on an even piece of ground. Ensure frames are square and then nail the gussets in place on both sides of the doors.

Hinge the doors in place and fit handles or padbolts of your choice.

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STEP 7. The greenhouse cover

Cover the greenhouse with UV-resistant polythene.

Hold the coverings in place by laying thin battens (strips of wood) over the polythene (ensuring the polythene is taut) and nailing the battens to the greenhouse studs, roof rafters or any other solid member.

Cover the doors and windows also.

Most hardware merchants or garden suppliers only stock the standard plastic polythene that is not UV resistant but they should be able to advise you where to get the polythene required for the greenhouse covering.

One source that might be worth looking at for cover (USA) is Tyco Plastics

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Materials and quantities

| Item |
Description |
| 330ft of 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber |
framing; rip down for battens, doors and windows |
| Misc |
nails, plates, strapping, hinges, handles etc |
| 36ft of 4"x4" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber |
base |
| 10ft of 1"x6" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber |
fascia |
| 4ft x 8ft x 3/8" thick treated plywood |
gussets |
| 350sq ft ultra-violet-resistant polythene |
covering |
|
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User comments
Hi there,
A lot of good projects and plans to find here.
Here is a pic of our Greenhouse.
It works really good.
Costs were around 160,- Euro.
Thanx
Alex & Stefan
Photo
Hi. Just a few photos of the greenhouse I built according to your plans last
fall. Only modification was to add 6 inches to the wall height. Did not
have treated lumber for 2 by 3's so stained it with a green preservative
(copper napthenate). I covered it with a clear (translucent) woven poly.
cheers,
Andrew
Photo
I thought I would send in two pictures of my greenhouse I built with
your plans. I am in America, so I had to convert to English
measurements. Thanks for the inspiration. We love it!
M. H.
Austin, TX, USA
Photo
I have just completed a greenhouse from you plan, and I am very happy with the results,
I used PVC panels rather than Poly. Photo attached,
Ken Taylor
Photo
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