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Free Shed Plans
narrow backyard shed
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How to make
A Narrow Backyard Shed
  Page 5 of 7  
bullet Page one: Introduction - Parts List
bullet Page two: Plans - Layout
bullet Page three: Plans - Front and Roof
bullet Page four: Plans - Rear and Sides
bullet Page five: Instructions
bullet Page six: Instructions continued
bullet Page seven: Making a Door

Narrow shed plans: Instructions

Step 1. Familiarize yourself

Skim thru all the pages first to get an understanding of the project. There are 'hyperlinked' page contents at the top on every page so it is easy to skip back and forward from page to page.
The parts list with part identification number (ID) and individual stock size and length is in the Introduction and Parts List page.

NOTE: All dimensions are given in both metric and imperial. Measurements are given first in millimeters followed by ft and/or inches in brackets.

Step 2. The Floor

Cut the Floor Frame members consisting of 100x100 (4x4) skids [a], 100x50 (2x4) joists [b] and 100x50 (2x4) end joists [c].

shed frame

Make up the floor frame on level ground. Refer to the Parts List and floor layout plan for individual member lengths and the floor layout. Use 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails for the floor frame and 'toenail' the joists to the skids.

Cover the floor with 18mm (3/4) inch treated plywood [e], nailing a maximum of 200mm (8") apart around the perimeter and along all joists using 60mm (2 1/2") galvanized nails.

NOTE: This complete plan-set with additional information can be purchased in downloadable PDF format free of advertising and print friendly for only $5. To purchase click here

Step 3. The Wall Frames

All the lumber used in the wall frames is 100x50 (2x4) stock however, the actual size of the stock when seasoned and dressed or surfaced is more likely to be 90x45 (1 1/2"x 2 1/2). The plans reflect the actual size.

Make up the front, rear and two side wall frames using 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails.

Refer to the front wall plan and the rear and side walls plan for individual member lengths and wall layout.

Tie the opposing raking top plates [l] together with galvanized metal strap ties [p] (see fig.1).

You can go to the webpage at https://www.buildeazy.com/plans/helpfiles_wallframes.html for more information on how to make Wall Frames.

Once the frames are made, squared and braced, lift them upright onto the floor and nail them together at the corners. Ensure the bottom plates are straight and flush with the outer edge of the floor. Next nail the bottom plates to the floor using 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails. Nail all along the bottom plates except in the door opening. Cut that piece out with a handsaw.
Because the wall frames were made and braced square and the floor is level, the frames will automatically be plumb (vertical).

Step 4. The Roof Frame

Cut two rafters [z] to the dimensions as shown in the front and roof plan.

Nail the two rafters [z] together at the top and also at the bottom to the top plates [z] ensuring that the rafters are centralized between the front and rear walls.

Check that the rafters [z] and the raking top plates [l] on both front and rear walls are all parallel to one another and then measure, cut and fix in place the ridge blocking [n] between the top of the rafters and the tops of the front and rear walls as shown in the above picture.

Step 5.The Roof Sheathing

Cover the roof area with 12mm (1/2") plywood so that the plywood is flush with the top of the rafters, the outside edge of the side walls and the outside edge of the front and rear walls. Nail a maximum of 200 (8") apart along the ridge blocking [n], the rafters [z], the raking top plates [l] and the side wall top plates [g] using 50mm (2") galvanized nails.

Note: The sheathing acts as a brace and also eliminates the need for a 'collar tie' which is a horizontal member that ties two opposing rafters together and prevents downward spread.


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