Table of Contents
Making a A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening.
It is more common than not when making a shed door to To secure with nails or screws. the bracing on the inside. However, by fixing the bracing to the outside of the door does have its advantages.
1.) It makes for a neater A strip of wood or a small batten that is attached to the door jambs on both sides and on top of the door thus stopping or limiting draught and/or rain. finish. The door The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. is the molding that is fixed to the wall frame or The frame in which a door or window sits. The top and two sides of a door or window frame that contact the door or sash. A vertical member at the side of a window frame, or the horizontal member at the top of the window frame, as in head jamb. around the inside boundary. of the door/s covering the gap between the door edge and the wall frame/jamb thus stopping or limiting draught or rain.
2.) It makes for a neater A vertical molding attached to one door of a pair (at their meeting edges) thus sealing them when shut. The astragal closes the clearance gap. finish. The astragal is the molding that covers the gap between a pair of doors when closed. The astragal is fixed vertically to the back of the outer edge on one of the doors. It also stops or limits draughts and rain.
Also… Hinging the doors to the surrounding The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens. (door The trim around a window or door.) allows for the doors to be able to open 180°.
The door Any of the framing wood.
Use 150×25 (1×6) tongue-and-groove lumber for the Plumb, upright. door slats and 100×25 (1×4) for the door bracing.
Use a lumber suitable for exterior applications such as cedar or Pressure treated. Refers to lumber that is treated in such a way that the sealer is forced into the pores of the wood. Refers to lumber pressure sprayed with chemicals to lengthen its life expectancy for outside use or inground applications. pine.
Making the door – Instructions
Step one. Cut 10 T&G (tongue-and-groove) door slats [d1] 2250mm (90″) long.
Step two. On an even surface join five slats [d1] together with the The widest side of a piece of wood. (best side) up forming a rectangular A sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window..
The width of the rectangular panel will be wider than the required door width at this stage.
Step three. Cut three pieces of 100×25 (1×4) Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. braces [d2] the same width as the rectangular panel, arrange them in their right places and screw them to the door slates. Refer to fig.1 for the placement of the horizontal braces.
Use Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees screws suitable for exterior use and of a length just slightly less that the thickness of the To make rigid. and slat combined.
Step four. Turn the rectangular panel over. Measure and mark the required door width central on the panel and cut off (A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) down) the excess each side.
Step five. Cut off the top 45° corner.
Step six. Turn the panel over. Measure, mark, cut and screw in place the three 100×25 (1×4) angled braces [d2].
Door one is finished.
Step seven. Make a second door the same as the first by repeating steps two-thru-six and use fig.1 for reference.
Note: Make the second door a mirror image of the first, that means that the top 45° corner on the second door will be opposite to that of the first.
Use the fig.1 Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. as a guide only. The exact door measurements should be taken from the door opening (Trim size; The framed-in opening, slightly larger than the actual window/door, that replaces wall studs to support the structure and accommodate a window/door.) in the wall frame once the shed shell (frame, The outer covering of a building meant to shed water and protect from the effects of weather., roof) is complete. Allow 6mm (1/4″) gap between the door and frame all the way around and between the two doors.
Step eight. Add the hinges to the horizontal braces on the doors and then ‘hang’ the doors in place by fastening the loose ends of the hinges to the trim surrounding the door opening (see picture at the top of the page).
Step nine. Fix 50×25 (1×2) molding (door stop) to the jamb around the inside perimeter of the door/s to cover the gap between the door edge and the jamb.
Note: Do not fix the door stop tight against the door on the hinged edges. A little bit of play is needed to ensure the edge of the door does not bind against the door sto when the door is being opened or closed.
Step ten. Fix a length of 50×25 (1×2) wood [d3] (the astragal) vertically to the back of the outer edge on one of the doors. (see fig.2)