How to make a Wall Frame
Wall Framing Page two
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Relevant to lightweight single story buildings, garages, sleep-outs, sheds etc.
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3.
Placing and fixing the Studs:
Lay and fix the Studs in place between the Top and Bottom Plates. If the Studs are not straight, lay with the bow upwards.
The length of the Stud should be the required ceiling height less the thickness of the Top and Bottom Plates as well as the thickness
of the ceiling lining as well as a bit to play with, say 10mm (3/8").
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4.
Placing and fixing the Noggings:
Fix the Noggings and Blocking in place between the Studs. At least one row of Noggings can help minimize twisting and warping.
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5.
Placing and fixing the Trimmer Studs and Headers:
Lay and fix the Trimmer Studs and Headers in place.
The Header is usually two 50 (2") thick pieces of lumber nailed together to form one 100 (4") thick piece. The width of the Header depends on the required span.
The width and height of the Trim size (Rough opening) should be slightly larger than the actual window or door finished frame size, by at least 10mm (3/8") .
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6.
Placing and fixing the Cripple Studs:
Just the Cripple Studs to go, which are the short Studs between the Header / Lintel and a Top Plate or between the sill and Bottom Plate.
The Wall Frame is now ready to be squared and lifted into place. The Wall Frame is square when the Wall Plates are straight
and the distance between the opposing diagonals are equal.
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