Millimeter measurements. version
This project shows how to make a child’s pushcart.
This type of cart which is made from timber is by no means new. In fact, the basic design has been around for years and years which is really a testament to the usefulness of such a toy; a toy that has helped many a child to take their first step to evolve from crawler to toddler. Apart from helping children to learn to walk, it also is a transporter for your child to move toys and blocks, etc. to and fro around the room. The pushcart is probably one of the most practical and entertaining toys a crawler or toddler can have!
A bit of load in the tray can of course help to steady or balance against the child’s weight, but we’ve designed this particular plan with balance in mind! We’ve given consideration to such things as the rear wheels being placed as far back as possible, the handle being placed as far forward as possible while still retaining easy workability and a Blocking. A pieces of wood that runs between other members (studs, joists, rafters) to provide support, add strength and/or act as a solid support between panel joins. built into the front of the pushcart to act as a counterweight.
This pushcart is constructed using common stock and can be built in less than half a day.
Note: All Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. are in millimeters (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.). The lengths referred to below are the exact lengths. When purchasing allow extra for wastage.
- [A] 75×25 (approximate finished The finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. 70 x 19) 2 pieces @ 475 long
- [B] 75×50 (approximate finished actual size 70 x 45) 1 piece @ 250 long
- [C] 50×25 (approximate finished actual size 45 x 19) 1 piece @ 250 long
- [D] 4.75mm thick hardboard (or other A sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window. Any broad, thin surface. such as A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue., A special type of tempered hardboard with a fine, smooth finish. MDF is used in cabinet making. A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. or similar) up to 6mm thick, 1 piece @ 450×260
- [E] 50×25 (approximate finished actual size 45 x 19) 2 pieces @ 462 long, cut back one end of each piece 25 degrees A line across the face of a piece of wood (at right angles to the length) is a square line. A line deviating from the square line is off square. Off-square refers to how many degrees the off square line is in relation to the square line. For example, a line at a 5 degrees angle to the square line, is 5 degrees off square., (see The plans)
- [F] 18mm diameter A round wooden pin that is used to reinforce a wood joint. The round wooden pin fits into corresponding holes in adjacent pieces of wood and helps fastens them securely together.. 1 piece @ 326 long
- Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees screws 8 @ 50mm long and 4 @ 32mm long
- Wheels, bolts, washers, and nuts, (see Step 6 for description)
- A dozen little panel pins (very small nails)
- PVA glue
- A piece of sandpaper
Follow the steps below and refer to the plans as necessary.
Cut all the timber as per the cutting list above. Drill an 18mm diameter hole centered 28mm down from top end of handle arms [E].
Cut a groove 6mm wide and 6 mm deep along members [A]. Measure so that the groove will be just below members [B] and [C]. The groove can be cut with a router or by repeated cuts with a circular power saw with the blade How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. to a depth of 6mm.
Or an easier option…
If you think that making the grooves might be too difficult, then don’t do them. Instead, cut the bottom panel sheet [D] so that it will fit in between members [A]. The panel can be glued and nailed at the front and rear to the underside of members [B] and [C]. Then cut a couple of sticks of wood about 20×20 @ 300mm long and glue them to the underside of the sheet panel and members [A] to The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. any sag in the middle.
Glue and screw members [A] to members [C] and [B]. Refer to the plans for placement. Use 50mm long wood screws, 2 at each meeting and pre-drill the holes through members [A] first.
Glue the handle [F] into the holes in the handle arms [E] and then screw the bottom of the handle arms [E] to the side members [A]. Refer to the plans for placement. Use 32mm long wood screws, 2 at each meeting and pre-drill the holes through members [E] first.
Slide the hardboard panel [D] in the grooves until positioned as shown in the plans and then glue and A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. (with panel pins) to the undersides of members [B] and [C].
Step 6. The wheels.
For this project, we used 100mm diameter wheels which were 20mm wide with a 6mm center hole. We used 6mm gutter bolts 60mm long for the axles. The A metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. was first put through the center hole in the wheel, a washer was then put on, followed by a nut and another washer. The The nail not including the head. of the bolt was then put through a 6mm hole in the sideboard [A] and then another washer and nut was added. The two nuts were tightened against the sideboard [A] in such a way that held the bolt rigid yet allowed play for the wheel, thus allowing for it to spin freely. See The plans for configuration. Because there is now such a wide range of wheels available, and prices, types, and sizes vary from place to place, basically any wheel with a diameter between 60mm and 120mm will suffice.
The important things to note are:
- To use bolts that have the same shank thickness as the diameter across the center hole in the wheel.
- The bolt should be long enough to go through the wheel center and the sideboard [A], and also be able
- To take 3 washers and two nuts.
- The hole size in the sideboard [A] should be the same diameter as the wheel center hole.
- The hole in the sideboard [A] should be in from both ends the same distance as the radius of the wheel.
The Finishing Touches: A bit of paint if you want (non-toxic of course) and that’s it!