Table of Contents
- 4About the measurements, Materials you will need and Informative notes
- 5Materials continued and cutting list for the form
- 6The plans - dimensions
- 7The form plans - schematic
- 8Step 1.1 Cutting and assembling the frame pieces of the seat form
- 9Step 1.2 Cutting the plywood, the plastic, and assembling the seat form
- 10Step 1.3 Cutting the form pieces for the legs
- 11Step 1.4 Assembling the forms for the legs
- 12Step 1.5 Aligning and bolting the leg forms to the seat form
- 13Steps 2.1 to 2.3 Cutting, shaping and tying the mesh
- 14Concrete mix information
- 15Steps 3.1 to 3.2 Dry and wet mix
- 16Steps 4.1 to 4.3 Applying the release agent, half filling the seat form and placing the reinforcing
- 17Steps 4.4 to 4.5 Topping up the seat form and attach the leg forms to the seat form
- 18Step 4.6 Topping up the leg forms
- 19Step 4.7 Releasing the leg forms
- 20Step 4.8 Releasing the seat form
- 21Appendage: Easier options
Steps 4.4 to 4.5 Topping up the seat form and attach the leg forms to the seat form
Step 4.4 Topping up the seat form
Top up the seat form with more A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry..
In fact, over-fill it, and then….
Rapity tapity tap
Vibration time. Bang around the sides of the form with a hammer.
Lift one end of the form up slightly and drop it. Do this multiple times in quick succession.
The more vibrating the better.
It settles the finer wetter mix around the coarser mix, gets rid of the air pocket holes, and makes the finished product a lot smoother.
Screed off the excess concrete.
Use a straight piece of Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees to “screed” or level out the concrete.
Work the screed A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. back and forth with a sawing motion along the tops of the form until the concrete is level all over.