Table of Contents
- 4About the measurements, Materials you will need and Informative notes
- 5Materials continued and cutting list for the form
- 6The plans - dimensions
- 7The form plans - schematic
- 8Step 1.1 Cutting and assembling the frame pieces of the seat form
- 9Step 1.2 Cutting the plywood, the plastic, and assembling the seat form
- 10Step 1.3 Cutting the form pieces for the legs
- 11Step 1.4 Assembling the forms for the legs
- 12Step 1.5 Aligning and bolting the leg forms to the seat form
- 13Steps 2.1 to 2.3 Cutting, shaping and tying the mesh
- 14Concrete mix information
- 15Steps 3.1 to 3.2 Dry and wet mix
- 16Steps 4.1 to 4.3 Applying the release agent, half filling the seat form and placing the reinforcing
- 17Steps 4.4 to 4.5 Topping up the seat form and attach the leg forms to the seat form
- 18Step 4.6 Topping up the leg forms
- 19Step 4.7 Releasing the leg forms
- 20Step 4.8 Releasing the seat form
- 21Appendage: Easier options
Appendage: Easier options
Easier options albeit for a less exciting seat.
Discard the angle fillets
You can do-away with the angle fillets for a plainer look around the top of the seat.
If you do-away with the angle fillets you must run the bevel cut on pieces (c) and (d) through the full thickness of the Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees.
Discard the angle brackets
Use clamps instead of the brackets to hold the leg forms to the seat form.
You will save sourcing or making the brackets and fitting them, and also save from having to To secure with nails or screws. the connecting bolts to the seat form.
The downside is that without the brackets and by using clamps, you will have to manually measure and position the units as you go. Okay for a one of, but probably not much chop if you intend to make a few.
The brackets on the leg forms and the connecting bolts in the seat form make for a quick and accurate alignment when bringing them together during the casting process
Discard the fancy shaped (e) pieces
You can replace the fancy curved (e) pieces with straight pieces, say 2 ½” x 2 ½” (62mm x 62mm) stock or bigger.
This will save the time and effort of making the curved (e) pieces.
It will also save a little time during the casting process, as you will not have to dismantle the leg forms when positioning them around the reinforcing.
The downside is that the legs of the finished product will be straight, and pretty much characterless.
Discard the plastic Any broad, thin surface.
The plastic sheet is to give a smooth finish to the top of the seat. You can do away with it and just use the A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue..
If the plywood surface is smooth, then so too will be the finish on the A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry. (although probably not as smooth as with the plastic).
Concrete will take on the same finish as the form itself.