Table of Contents
Beam an post braces and making the hub
Ft and inch version: (metric version below)
Beam / post braces
The beam/post braces are fixed to the top of the posts and to the underside of the head beam.
Two per post, so a total of sixteen is required.
The beam/post braces are decorative rather than structural, as the posts concreted into the ground are support enough for any sideways movement. For these beam/post braces you will need 16 lengths of 4×4 sawn treated pieces of lumber at approximately 16″ long. (It’s up to you whether you replace these beam and post braces with something more fancy.)
At the end of one of the pieces of lumber cut a 45 degree angle (fig 5). Measure back 14″ from the long point of the cut and pencil mark another 45 degree angle inward. Set your circular saw blade at 22.5 deg. and cut along that pencil mark.
Repeat this on all 16 pieces of lumber.
Fix all 16 pieces in place as per fig 5 with 4″ galvanized nails.
It is sometimes wise to drill the nail holes first with a slightly smaller drill bit to ensure no splitting of the lumber occurs.
Making the hub
The hub is the piece of lumber that goes to the very top of the gazebo roof (apex).
The eight roof rafters are fixed to the hub.
Get a length of 4×4 sawn treated lumber 2ft long.
Make a pencil line down the length of the lumber 1 1/4″ in from the edge as per fig 6. Do the same along all four edges.
Set the angle on the circular saw to 45 degrees and rip-cut down the four pencil lines.
You now have made the hub.
Metric version:
Beam/post bracesÂ
The beam/post braces are fixed to the top of the posts and to the underside of the head beam.
Two per post, so a total of sixteen is required.
The beam/post braces are decorative rather than structural, as the posts concreted into the ground are support enough for any sideways movement. If you prefer, you can replace these beam and post braces with something more decorative.
However, for these beam/post braces you will need 16 lengths of 100×100 sawn treated timber at approximately 400mm long.
At the end of one of the pieces of timber cut a 45 degree angle (fig 5). Measure back 350mm from the long point of the cut and pencil mark another 45 degree angle inward. Set your circular saw blade at 22.5 deg. and cut along that pencil mark. Repeat this on all 16 pieces of timber. Fix all 16 pieces in place (fig 5.) with 90mm galvanized jolt head nails.
It is sometimes wise to drill the nail holes first with a slightly smaller drill bit to minimize the chance of the timber splitting.
Making the hub
The hub is the piece of timber that goes to the very top of the gazebo roof (apex).
The eight roof rafters are fixed to the hub.
Get a length of 100×100 sawn treated pine timber 600mm long.
Scribe a pencil line down the length of the timber 30mm in from the edge fig 6. Do the same along all four edges.
Set the angle on the circular saw to 45 degrees and rip-cut down the four pencil scribe lines.
You now have made the hub.
Dear BuildEazy,
I used your simple but excellent Gazebo plans in metric (also in imperial) this Spring 2010 and was able to complete the project with not too much hassle, the greatest weapon by far was the electric planer and I have bought another one as a result to finish a door project – well done to all with your BuildEazy site.
Here is my Gazebo – done by me and the missus in Livno, Western Bosnia…
best regards Brian Eager
Hi, Thanks for the plans! Here is a photo of the Gazebo. My son, father-in-law, and I built this Gazebo for his Eagle Scout Service Project! We really enjoyed it and the plans were easy to follow. The roof was the most challenging part!
-Brian McKenna
Hi. Just a photo of the garden gazebo that I made from your plans , really easy to make.
Simon Rowley