Table of Contents
- 2Something special about a wooden glasshouse
- 3The structure of the thing
- 4Rebates and trenches
- 5The wood and wood sizes
- 6The glasshouse glass - Terminologies
- 7The order of making
- 8Wood you will need
- 9Wood list per section
- 10Floor (footprint) and front elevation plans
- 11Step 1. Get and stack the wood
- 12Plans - High wall (step 2)
- 13Step 2. Make up the high (left side) wall
- 14Plans - Front wall (step 3)
- 15Step 3 after. Make up the front wall
- 16How to - Cut rebates and trenches
- 17Plans - Rear wall (step 4)
- 18Step 4 (after). Make up the rear wall
- 19Plans - Low wall (step 5)
- 20Step 5 (after). Make up the low wall
- 21Plans - Roof frame (step 6)
- 22Step 6 (after). Make up the roof frame
- 23Step 7. Make up the windows | Plans and instructions
- 24Plans - Door (step 8)
- 25Step 8. Make up the door
- 26Step 9. Paint it
- 27Step 10. Level the site area
- 28Step 11. Stand the walls
- 29Step 12. Complete and position the roof frame
- 30Step 13. Hang the door
- 31Glass sizes and quantity
- 32Step 14. Glazing time
- 33Step 15. Gutter and drainage
- 34Step 16. Get the windows working
- 35A couple of photos
The Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees and wood sizes
Note: This project is written using both Millimeter measurements. (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.) and Standard. Feet and inch measurements. (inch) measurements.
The metric measurements are given first followed by the standard measurements in brackets ( ). For example: 50mm x 75mm (2×3).
The size (width and thickness) of the framing wood given throughout this project is the The rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2")., that is the size of the wood before it has been Surfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. (See Dressed., planed, seasoned).
When the wood has been dressed (surfaced, planed, seasoned), it becomes the ‘actual size’ or the true size.
The The finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. of wood is less than the nominal size.
The wood I used for this frame was a Pressure treated. Refers to lumber that is treated in such a way that the sealer is forced into the pores of the wood. Refers to lumber pressure sprayed with chemicals to lengthen its life expectancy for outside use or inground applications. General term used to describe wood produced from needle and/or cone bearing trees. Wood that is easy to saw from conifers such as pine or fir. The term ‘softwood’ does not refer the density of the wood as there are hardwoods that are softer than softwoods such as balsa..
For the studs, top plates, rafters, and noggings I used dressed (surfaced, planed, seasoned) 50mm x 75mm (2×3). That is the ‘called’ (nominal) size. The actual size is less.
50mm x 75mm (2×3) is not a very common stock size in North America although it can be sourced from the odd place. Failing that, it can be obtained by ripping 2×6 stock in half.
For the The bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. I used rough (actual size, fence see PILE) 100mm x 100mm (4×4).
The stock sizes given for the framing wood in this documentation are the ‘nominal’ sizes as opposed to the true ‘actual’ sizes. why?…
Nominal size Vs actual size
When wood (nominal size) is dressed (surfaced, planed, seasoned), the width and thickness of it becomes less. It becomes the true ‘actual’ size. The actual size is less than the nominal size.
The actual (true) size can vary in different countries.
For example: Consider a piece of common 50mm x 100mm (2×4).
When dressed (surfaced, planed, seasoned) there is a discrepancy in the wood thicknesses between the British/Australasian standard stock size (being 45mm thick) and the US standard stock size (being 1 1/2″ thick). There is a difference of around 7mm (1/4″).
Hence why I will be referring to the framing wood by the nominal size rather than the actual size. The nominal size is more standardized.
If the wood that you source is a slightly different size (width and thickness) to the wood used in this project, it doesn’t matter, Just make adjustments to suit.