Building a A box at or near a dwelling for the occupant’s mail. – instructions
For the mailbox you will need…….
A 1200mm x 600mm (2ft x 4ft) Any broad, thin surface. of 18mm (3/4″) thick A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue..
40mm (1 1/2″) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees screws and/or 40mm (1 1/2″) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. nails
Couple of small hinges and knob
Exterior type wood glue
All the pieces required to make the mailbox can be cut from a 1200mm x 600mm (2ft x 4ft) sheet of 18mm (3/4″) thick plywood which is a quarter of a standard 1200×2400 (4ft x 8ft) sheet.
Some building supply stores sell handy quarter sheets or other sizes that also might do the trick. Ensure that the plywood is suitable for exterior use and that it has at least one smooth The widest side of a piece of wood.. Fig.1shows how all the mailbox pieces can be cut from a 1200mm x 600mm (2ft x 4ft) sheet of plywood
Step 1. Cut the pieces
Cut all the mailbox pieces to the dimensions as given below and refer to the plans as necessary.
[a] Front panel: Cut to the dimensions as shown in the plans.
[b] Side A sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window.: Width – 300mm (12″). Length – The same as the distance between points y and z as shown on panel [a] in the plans. Angle the top end-cut back 25° and angle the bottom end-cut back 10° .
[c] Side panel: Width – 300mm (12″). Length – 485mm (19 3/8″). Angle the top end-cut back 35°
[d] Roof panel: Width – 300mm (12″). Length – 485mm (19 3/8″). Angle the top end-cut back 35°
[e] Upper shelf: Length – 300mm (12″). Width – 173mm (6 15/16″). Angle one end-cut back 55° . This cut might have to be done with a handsaw as most power saws or bench saws will not cut angles more than 45° .
[f] Middle shelf: Length – 248mm (9 7/8″). Width – The same as the distance between points u and v as shown on [a] in the plans. Angle one end-cut back 10° .
[f] Lower shelf: Length – 267mm (10 5/8″). Width – The same as the distance between points w and x as shown on [a] in the plans. Angle one end-cut back 10° .
[f] Letter compartment A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening.: Cut to suit.
Step 2. Assemble the mailbox
Commence assembly by first screwing and/or nailing the front panel [a] to the side panel [c].
Make the panels Being even with. (even) at the bottom and off-set panel [a] back 15mm (5/8″) from the front edge of side panel [c]. See the side sectional view in the plans.
Use an exterior type wood glue and 40mm (1 1/2″) wood screws and/or 40mm (1 1/2″) galvanized nails to assemble the mailbox.
If using screws, pre-drill the outer members making the hole size slightly bigger than the diameter of the The nail not including the head. (neck) of the screw.
Next add the three shelf pieces [e], [f] and [g] (see fig.2) followed by side panel [b] and then roof panel [d].
A note about the measurements.
The Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. given in this ‘how to build a mailbox’ project are in both Millimeter measurements. (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.) and Standard. Feet and inch measurements. (inches). A mailbox made using imperial measurements will be slightly bigger than a mailbox made using metric measurements. That is because in this project one inch is translated into 25mm for easy rounding. In reality one inch equals 25.4 millimeters.
The only people that will really notice the difference are those few that are capable of working in both metric and imperial with equal skill and mix measurements. In short, use either one or the other, metric or imperial but do not combine the two together.
Step 3. The letter compartment door
Cut and shape the letter compartment door to suit so that it fits below the top shelf [e] and covers middle shelf [f].
Hinge the door in place by fixing two smallish hinges to the top of the door and top shelf [e].
Any other fixture is personal preference.
If security is not an issue, then just a knob to open the door and some type of catch to keep the door closed or even a spring (as shown in fig.3) to close the door.
If security is an issue, then some type of latch-set or pad A metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. that can accommodate a pad lock will need to be added.
Finally, just a bit of paint and the numbers.