Table of Contents
Materials list
Before building this pergola……..
Check with your local Authority to see if any Building permits, permissions or conditions are required.
Check with the utility companies to make sure the area is clear of underground gas, water, electrical lines etc.
Find out the depth of the frost line in your area and if applicable check to see if the footings require any special consideration. Usually the bottom of the footings should be below the frost line to prevent movement.
Note: To see how Tim built this pergolaA structure with open wood-framed roofs, often latticed and supported by regularly spaced posts or columns, and covered by climbing plants such as vines or roses, shading a walk or passageway. Pergolas are distinguished from “arbors,” which are less extensive in extent and structure. go comments.
| Tools required | ||
 carpenter’s hammer carpenter’s square carpenter’s pencil measuring tape handsaw | adjustable spanner builder’s string line power saw electric drill | 12mm (1/2″) drill bit bucket or hose spade wheelbarrow |
A bit about the lumber
The lumberAny of the framing wood. used in this project needs to be suitable for exterior use and the posts need to be suitable for inground application. The local lumber yard will be able to advise you on the most suitable lumber for the job.
The lumber sizes referred to in this project are the nominal sizes. The nominal sizeThe rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2"). is the size of the lumber before it is dressedSurfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. or seasoned. This is the size generally referred to when purchasing from the lumber yard. The actual (or dressed) size of the lumber will be less than the nominal size. For example, a piece of 100×50 (2×4) lumber when dressed may be 90×45 (1 1/2″x 3 1/2″) actual sizeThe finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood.. Please make necessary allowances.
Materials list
Posts: 100×100 (4×4) – 4 pieces at 3000mm (10ft)
Beams: 200×50 (2×8) – 2 pieces at 4200mm (14ft)
Rafters: 75×50 (2×3) – 8 pieces at 1800mm (6ft). Up size to 100×50 (2×4) or even 150×50 (2×6) if a bulkier look is preferred
Bolts: 12mm (1/2″) galvanizedCovered with a protective coating of zinc. carriage boltsAre round headed bolts with square shoulders that resist rotation when located or driven into place. They can be called coach bolts or carriage bolts depending on which part of the world you live in. The head end of the bolt does not need a washer, but the other end of the bolt (the nut end) usually does. 120mm (5″) long – 8 of
Nails: 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized – 1kg (2.5 lb) of
ConcreteA mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry.: As needed
Batter boardsProfiles;Horizontal boards attached level to stakes, used to mark out the boundary of a construction and establish the levels and building line. and stakes: 5 meters (16ft) of 50×50 (2×2) – 8 meters (26ft) of 100×25 (1×4) throw-away low grade woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees.
I built this Garden Pergola from the Buildeazy plans “How to Build a Walk-through Garden Pergola.”
I used 100×100 (4×4) dressed treated posts, 200×50(2×8) beams, and 150×50 (2×6) rafters for a more bulk look.
I put the posts in basically to the same dimensions as in the plan. I let the posts set in concrete overnight and then trimmed and checked out the top of the posts according to the instructions.
I then measured and notched out the top of the beams to accommodate the rafters.
I cut all the rafters to length and also cut my preferred profile on the ends and clamped them altogether and placed them on convenient height supports to enable marking and notching. I then marked lines where the rafters were to be checked out, set my power saw blade to the required depth, which was 60mm (2 1/2) inches in this case, and made multiple saw cuts within the lines.
I used 150×50 (2×6) rafters for a more bulkier look.
It was a simple task with a hammer and chisel to clean out the notches. I had previously done the same to the top of the beams where the rafters are to be fixed.
The tops of posts are trimmed and shaped, the beams and rafters are cut and notched, now the whole structure can be assembled.
I then sat the two beams in the top of the posts and clamped them in place.
It was then just a matter of drilling and bolting the beams to the posts.
I pretty much went by the plan instructions
The next step was probably the easiest part of the whole job and also the most rewarding as the finished project took shape.
The rafters fitted easily into the notches in the beams.
A nail or two to make sure that the rafters aren’t going anywhere and that’s about it!
I haven’t yet put much thought into what else I might do to the pergola but I might run some lattice work up each end.
I completed the project in a weekend and it’s strong enough to support any amount of plants and vines and maybe even put up a swing for the kids.