Table of Contents
Instructions continued: Steps 4 to 7:
Step 4: Dig the holes
Mark the Crs; O.C; Term used for spacing; The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next. for the four holes which will be (50mm (2″) in from the The outline of a building. (string line) at the corners.
Take down the string line and dig the four see PILE holes, 350mm (14″) square and 600mm (24″) deep. They will need to be deeper if in a frost prone area. See notes in page one.
When the holes are dug, replace the string line. (The string outlines the outside faces of the posts.)
Step 5: Mix and pour the A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry.
Make a mix of concrete in a wheelbarrow at a ratio of 3 gravel, 2 sand and 1 A powdery type substance made from a mixture of earths materials such as limestone and shale, which is sintered (cause to become solid mass by heating without melting), ground, and mixed with small amounts of calcium sulphate and calcium carbonate. Cement is activated by water and when mixed with gravel and sand, forms concrete.. Add clean water and mix to a uniform consistency until wet enough to fill around the posts, yet stiff enough to hold the posts upright without the need of supports or braces. Of course you will need a wind free day.
Carefully shovel some concrete into the bottom of each hole before placing the posts. (Minimum 75mm (3″))
Step 6: Stand the posts
This step will require two people.
Have one person position a post Plumb, upright. into one of the holes and next to (but not quite touching) the building lines (string lines) where they meet at the corners.
Check the post is vertical by holding a Vertical; Upright. level against two adjacent sides of the post. The other person can then proceed to shovel concrete around the post to within 50mm (2″) from the top of the hole. Repeat this action until all four posts are concreted in place.
Confirm again that all posts are vertical and leave to How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade..
A couple of days later
Step 7: The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens. the tops of the posts
Trim the top off one of the posts 2200mm (88″) from the ground. (Remember from the materials list that all posts are slightly over length.)
Note: Keeping the top of the A structure with open wood-framed roofs, often latticed and supported by regularly spaced posts or columns, and covered by climbing plants such as vines or roses, shading a walk or passageway. Pergolas are distinguished from “arbors,” which are less extensive in extent and structure. as low as possible gives the appearance of a wider opening and less elongated look. However, if you prefer a higher pergola – Then do it.
Measure down from the top of the trimmed post to the building line (string line) and transfer that measurement to the other three posts. This gives a level mark at the top of the posts.
Trim the other three posts.
On the outer side of each post mark a Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. line 200mm (8″) down from the top.
Cut along the mark with a power saw to a depth of 50mm (2″) i.e. the thickness of the A supporting member.. Do this to all four posts.
Next – Scribe a vertical mark 50mm (2″) in from the outer site of each post from the top, down 200mm (8″). Cut down that mark with a sharp handsaw. See fig.2
When using a power saw make sure you have firm A base (in or on the ground) that will support the structure..
Erect a scaffold if necessary.
Wear safety goggles and earmuffs.