The A U-shaped cutout in a member to house another member. A notch has two sides and can be anywhere along the member except the ends (unlike a rebate that is an L-shaped cut-out with one side and is always at an end or side of a member). and plugs
Sand all the edges, making a cone.
A disk sander would be ideal although just sandpaper with a sanding pad will suffice if you don’t mind using a bit of elbow grease.
How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. the blade in your circular saw to a depth of 2 1/4″ (56mm) and make multiple saw-cuts across the notch area, cutting as close to the curved line as possible.
Then clean the notch out with a sharp chisel and round the top of the cone head with sandpaper.
Drill two 3/8″ (10mm) holes into the template, one in the notch area and the other in the side of the cone head.
Position the holes approximately as shown in the drawing below.
The holes are to accommodate a couple of bolts, or 3/8″ (10mm) steel rod that can be put into the holes to hold the top of the spiral rod in place.
Once the spiral is formed, the bolts can be pulled out to allow the spiral to slip off the template with relative ease.
To see how to make the spiral Wind-Spinner click here. You will also find information regarding the types, thickness and lengths of rod required.
This is my version of the spiral Wind-Spinner template and it works very well. It takes less than a minute to make a spiral Wind-Spinner using the template.
If you can improve on the template or have a different type that works well and is easy to make, let us know.