How to build a
Hexagonal (six sided) BBQ picnic table
 This is the Metric version
Click here
for the Imperial (ft and ins) version
Click here
for helpful user comments and photos
About the timber sizes.
All dimensions are in mm (millimetres)
The timber sizes referred to in his project are ex 150x40 and ex 100x50. Ex means the nominal size which is the size of
the timber before it is dressed (smooth, gauged, planed). When the timber is dressed, the actual size is then less than the nominal size. For example: 150x40 when dressed may become 140x35 actual size and 100x50
when dressed may become 94x46 actual size.
The Actual sizes can vary slightly from area to area but that should not have any effect on the dimensions given
through-out this project. What will vary, depending on the actual size of the timber, is the gap between each row of table top boards and seat boards.
Update note:
Although many people have undertaken this project successfully,
feedback suggests that some people have had trouble deciphering the angles/dimensions given in some of the drawings.
To address those concerns we have built another hexagonal table and completely rewrote the prose with new drawings, explanations, photos and a video clip.
Click here to go to the
new updated version
Also, additional drawings and information have been added to this page.
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The Timber cutting list. Seat and tabletop boards.
The timber used for the seat and tabletop boards, in the cutting list below is ex 150x40 dressed bevelled treated pine.
This timber is available at most timber merchants and is usually used for retaining wall boards.
About the angle cuts: There are two different angle cuts required for this project. One is 30 degrees off square, the other is 60 degrees off square.
To cut the 30 degree angle, simply set the blade on your miter saw to the required angle. The 60 degree angle will have to be cut with a handsaw, as miter saws will not do such a cut.
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Don't know how to get a 30° or 60° angle?
Click on one of the links below to bring up an angle pattern image. You can then print out that image and use it as a pattern.
30° pattern click here
60° pattern click here
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The Timber cutting list. Table frame.
The timber used for the table frame, in the cutting list below is ex 100x50 dressed treated pine.
This timber is available at most timber merchants.
Instructions. Upper and lower frames
Make up both the table top support upper frame (d, d1, d2) and the seat support lower frame (c, c1, c2), on flat ground using the materials in the cutting list above.
The centre of both frames should be fixed as shown in drawing below, and the end outer points of the frames (6 each frame) should be equal distances apart.
Nail two metal strap plates to the top side and to the underside of both frames (8 strap plates in all). See drawing below.
To see enlarged table top and seat board lay-out plan click here
Instructions. Seat and table top boards.
Mark out from the centre of both frames (measurements shown in diagram below) along
every arm of the two frames. These are used as guides for placing the boards.
Nail the cut tabletop boards (A's) to the upper frame (D's) beginning with the
outer boards (longest boards). Ensure the joins are in the middle of the frame arms and equal distance
from the center point of the frame. Continue around the frame with the next
longest board and so on until the table top is complete.
Do the lower (seat) frame (C's) in the same way using the cut seat boards (B's).
Use 90mm galvanized flathead nails to fix the boards to the frame. Drill
nail holes first to keep timber from splitting.
Instructions. The legs.
Lay the finished table top upside down on flat ground.
Position the finished seat frame upside down above the tabletop.
Place packers or blocks under the seat frame so that the seat frame sits 315mm above ground.
Position the legs in place as per below drawing. Hold with clamps, drill and bolt.
Eazy with a Z
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