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Step 1. Get an Understanding
It is easier to take on a project armed with a good understanding of exactly what is involved.
This is best achieved by first reading thru all the pages to get familiar with all the terminology and procedures and to get an overall 'feeling' for the project.
There are 'hyperlinked' page contents at the bottom on every page so it is easy to skip back and forward from page to page. The contents include plans, Nailing Information, Shopping List and Glossary which is an alphabetical list of words or terms used within this project and their meanings.

Info: This project is in both metric and imperial. All measurements are given in millimeters (mm) first, followed by feet and/or inches in brackets.
The metric sizes are not an exact match to the equivalent imperial sizes. A shed built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller than a shed built using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia.

Step 2. The Floor
Note: All lumber used for the floor frame should be suitable for exterior use.

Position the two skids [a] level and parallel on firm ground free of any vegetation.
Space the skids apart so that (inside) measurement from skid to skid is 1400mm (56").

Make up the floor frame consisting of 9 joists [b] and 2 end joists [c] to the dimensions as shown in the Floor Plan.
Use a hard level surface such as a concrete drive or garage floor as a work area.

Use the Floor Plan for layout reference and the Parts List for individual member sizes and lengths.
The finished floor frame should be a rectangle 2100mm x 2400mm (7ft x 8ft).

When the floor frame is made, position it in place on top of the skids. Ensure the floor frame is a true rectangle (all corners are 90° / right angles) and then fix it to the skids. Toenail (angle nail) thru the joists into the skids.

Fix the 18mm (3/4") plywood sheets [e] to the floor frame. Use 60mm (2 1/2") galvanized nails to fix the plywood floor to the floor frame nailing 150mm (6") apart along the seams (where the sheets join) and a maximum of 200mm (8") apart around the perimeter and along all intermediate joists .

Step 3. Making the Shed Frames
The shed has four wall frames which are the front frame, rear frame and two side frames.

Cut all the 100x50 (2x4) wall frame members (studs, plates etc) to the lengths given in the Front Wall Plan and the Rear and Side Wall Plans.
Cut the longest pieces first to minimize wastage.
The studs in the front and rear walls are all varying sizes and the tops have angle cuts at 45°.
The raking top plates and raking headers have 45° angle cuts at both ends.

Refer to the Front Wall and the Rear and Side Wall plans for layout and member placement and the Parts List for individual member sizes and lengths.

Make each wall frame up separately on a flat even surface.

Help! For more information on how to make wall frames go to http://www.buildeazy.com/plans/helpfiles_wallframes.html

Step 4. Standing the Frames
Lift the four shed frames upright onto the floor and nail them together at the corners ensuring that the corners of the frames are flush.

Position the wall frames on the floor so that the outside edges of the bottom plates are flush with the outer edge of the floor.
Commence nailing the bottom plates to the floor beginning as close as possible to the corner studs at all four corners and then continuing the rest of the way along the plates but DO NOT NAIL the bottom plate in the door opening as that part is to be discarded.

Cut out the bottom plate in the door opening with a hand saw.

If the wall frames were made square and the floor is level, then the frames should automatically be plumb (vertical).

Step 5. The Roof Frame
Cut 10 rafters [z] and 5 collar ties [z1] to the lengths and with the angle cuts as shown in the Front and Roof plan.

Make up 5 rafter frame sets with each set containing a pair of rafters and a collar tie as shown in the drawing below.

Bolt the collar ties [z1] to the rafters [z] with 10mm (3/8") galvanized carriage bolts that are long enough to go thru both collar tie and rafter.

Info: The purpose of the collar ties are to stop the rafters from spreading under weight and forcing the side walls out. This is more crucial if the roof is not covered with sheathing. However, in this particular project the roof is fully covered with sheathing and because the pitch of the roof is 45°, not only does the sheathing brace the roof but also does the same job as the collar ties.