Table of Contents
Step 6: Putting on the Roof A protective covering of boards or plywood applied to the studs or rafters of a building to strengthen it and serve as a foundation for a weatherproof exterior.
Cover the roof area with 12mm (1/2″) A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue.. You will need four sheets cut at 1500mm x 1200mm (4ft x 5ft), two each side of the roof.
Make the plywood Being even with. with the top of the The horizontal line at the top of opposing sloping sides of a roof running parallel with the building length., the outside edge of the side walls and the outside edge of the front and rear walls. A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. a maximum of 200 (8″) apart along the ridge Blocks, see Block. [n], the rafters [z], the Running parallel with the slope of the roof at the gable. top plates [l] and the side wall top plates [g].
Ensure that the middle join is on a Structural member of a roof that supports the roof load and runs from the ridge to the top of the side walls.. Use 50mm (2″) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. nails.
Note: If using plywood Any broad, thin surface. off-cuts it will be necessary to add blocking between the rafters where any joins occur.
Step 7: Putting on the A cover or protection such as a building paper that envelops the exterior walls or roof frame prior to the cladding being fixed. Reduces air movement and helps avoid the risk of water ingress. and Boards used to cover the roof.
Cover the shed frame in A building paper that envelops the exterior walls or roof frame prior to the cladding being fixed. Reduces air movement and helps avoid the risk of water ingress. or A building paper that envelops the exterior walls or roof frame prior to the cladding being fixed. Reduces air movement and helps avoid the risk of water ingress.. Make the wrap taut and waterproof and hold in place with staples or small flathead nails.
Cut 16 lengths of 250×25 (1×10) roof boards [v] at 2400mm (8ft) long.
Start on one side. Have the first (lower) A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. overhang the side wall by half of its width and nail it in place. See fig.2 below.
Work upwards overlapping each board by 50mm (2″). Nail thru the boards where they overlap at points along the lines of the rafters [z] and raking top plates [l] using 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized nails. See fig.2 above.
Do the same on the other side of the roof.
Step 8: Putting on the Plumb, upright. Boards
To secure with nails or screws. the 250×25 (1×10) vertical boards [r] to the wall frames beginning at the corners.
On the side walls cut the vertical boards at a length long enough to tuck under the lower overhanging roof board [v] and run below the floor joists.
On the font and rear walls cut the vertical boards at a length long enough to be flush with the top of the raking roof and run below the floor joists. The tops of the boards will need to be cut on a 45° angle to match the Angle of roof. of the roof.
Nail all vertical boards [r] to the Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. blocking [k] with nails spaced approximately 75mm (3″) apart including the nail that will be going through the Narrow board used to cover cladding joins.. Leave a gap about the width of a nail The nail not including the head. between each board.
Step 9: Put on the Trims, Any piece of material, usually metal or plastic, installed to prevent water from penetrating the structure. and Narrow board used to cover claddingThe exterior surface of a building. joins or used for decorative purposes.
Cover the top roof boards with a piece of L-shaped galvanized flashing [w] running the length of the ridge. Ideally the Flashing that covers or caps the ridge of a roof. should be wide enough to cover at least 100mm (4″) along each A flat surface extending infinitely in all directions (e.g. horizontal or vertical plane). Any flat, two-dimensional surface. (side) of the roof. (See fig.2)
Cut 4 lengths of 150×25 (1×6) Exterior visible flat trim board that follows the rake of the roof. Also called barge board or gable fascia. [x] at 1800mm (6ft) long.
Make a 45° angle cut at one end and make a round cut at the other end on all 4 boards.
Fix the rake boards [x] to the tops of the vertical boards [r] at both front and rear gables. Ensure the top edges of the rake boards are flush with the top of the roof boards [v].
Add the 100×25 (1×4) A piece of board that caps the top of the rake board and the ends of the roof boards. [y]. Miter the top end of each length of rake cap at a 45° angle. The rake cap sits on top of the rake board [x] and covers the ends of the roof boards [v].
Fix the 75×25 (1×3) vertical battens [s] over each vertical board join. Preferably, the battens should have a groove each side of the join to The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. water being drawn in by capillary action.
Nail on the center line of the vertical batten, thru the gap between the vertical boards and into the blocking. Overlap battens at corners using 75×25 (1×3) batten on one side of each corner and 100×25 (1×4) The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens. on the other side.
Using one length of 100×25 (1×4) stock and one length of 75×25 (1×3) stock at each corner will give a balanced look. (see fig.3).