Table of Contents
Step 1: Get an understanding of the project
It is easier to take on a project armed with a good understanding of exactly what is involved.
This is best achieved by first reading through the content to get familiar with all the terminology and procedures and to get an overall ‘feeling’ for the project.
The content includes plans, nailing information, shopping list and glossary which is an alphabetical list of words or terms used within this project and their meanings.
Info: This project is in both Millimeter measurements. and Standard. Feet and inch measurements.. All measurements are given in millimeters (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.) first, followed by feet and/or inches in brackets.
The metric sizes are not an exact match to the equivalent imperial sizes. A shed built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller than a shed built using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia.
Step 2: Making The Floor
Note: All Any of the framing wood. used for the floor frame should be suitable for exterior use.
Position the two skids [a] level and Being of equal distance from each other at all points. on firm ground free of any vegetation.
Space the skids apart so that (inside) measurement from A solid piece of lumber that fits under a building in place of a footings or foundation making the building able to be moved. to skid is 1400mm (56″).
Make up the floor frame consisting of 9 joists [b] and 2 end joists [c] to the Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. as shown in the Floor Plan.
Use a hard level surface such as a A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry. drive or A building or enclosure primarily designed to house motor vehicles. It can be either attached to the main house or detached and surrounded by open space. floor as a work area.
Use the Floor Plan for layout reference and the Parts List for individual Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure. sizes and lengths.
The finished floor frame should be a Four-sided figure with four right angles. 2100mm x 2400mm (7ft x 8ft).
When the floor frame is made, position it in place on top of the skids. Ensure the floor frame is a true rectangle (all corners are 90° / right angles) and then To secure with nails or screws. it to the skids. Join two pieces of wood by driving nails at an angle to the surface of one piece and into the second piece. A nail driven at an angle to fasten one member to another. (Toenail. A nail driven at an angle to the member.) thru the joists into the skids.
Fix the 18mm (3/4″) A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. sheets [e] to the floor frame. Use 60mm (2 1/2″) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. nails to fix the plywood floor to the floor frame nailing 150mm (6″) apart along the seams (where the sheets join) and a maximum of 200mm (8″) apart around the boundary. and along all intermediate joists .
Step 3: Making the Shed Wall Frames
The A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. and Narrow board used to cover cladding joins. shed has four wall frames which are the front frame, rear frame and two side frames.
Cut all the 100×50 (2×4) wall frame members (studs, plates etc) to the lengths given in the Front Wall Plan and the Rear and Side Wall Plans.
Cut the longest pieces first to minimize wastage.
The studs in the front and rear walls are all varying sizes and the tops have angle cuts at 45°.
The Running parallel with the slope of the roof at the gable. top plates and raking headers have 45° angle cuts at both ends.
Refer to the Front Wall and the Rear and Side Wall plans for layout and member placement and the Parts List for individual member sizes and lengths.
Make each wall frame up separately on a flat even surface.
Step 4: Standing the Frames
Lift the four shed frames upright onto the floor and A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. them together at the corners ensuring that the corners of the frames are Being even with..
Position the wall frames on the floor so that the outside edges of the bottom plates are flush with the outer edge of the floor.
Commence nailing the bottom plates to the floor beginning as close as possible to the corner studs at all four corners and then continuing the rest of the way along the plates but DO NOT NAIL the The bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. in the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening. opening as that part is to be discarded.
Cut out the bottom The top or bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. in the door opening with a hand saw.
If the wall frames were made square and the floor is level, then the frames should automatically be Vertical; Upright. (Plumb, upright.).
Step 5: Doing the Roof Frame
Cut 10 rafters [z] and 5 collar ties [z1] to the lengths and with the angle cuts as shown in the Front and Roof plan.
Make up 5 Structural member of a roof that supports the roof load and runs from the ridge to the top of the side walls. frame sets with each How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. containing a pair of rafters and a A horizontal member fixed to two opposing rafters to reduce sagging or spreading. as shown in the drawing below.
A metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. the collar ties [z1] to the rafters [z] with 10mm (3/8″) galvanized Are round headed bolts with square shoulders that resist rotation when located or driven into place. They can be called coach bolts or carriage bolts depending on which part of the world you live in. The head end of the bolt does not need a washer, but the other end of the bolt (the nut end) usually does. that are long enough to go thru both collar tie and rafter.
Info: The purpose of the collar ties are to The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. the rafters from spreading under weight and forcing the side walls out. This is more crucial if the roof is not covered with A protective covering of boards or plywood applied to the studs or rafters of a building to strengthen it and serve as a foundation for a weatherproof exterior.. However, in this particular project the roof is fully covered with sheathing and because the pitch of the roof is 45°, not only does the sheathing To make rigid. the roof but also does the same job as the collar ties.