How to build a 2100mm x 2400mm (7ft x 8 ft)
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Making a Door
is more common than not when making a shed door to fix the bracing on
the inside. However, by fixing the bracing to the outside of the door as done in this project,
does have its advantages.
1.) It makes for a neater door stop finish.
The door stop is a strip of wood or a small batten that is attached to the door jambs on both
sides and on top of the door thus stopping or limiting draught and/or rain.
2.) It makes for a neater astragal finish. The astragal is the
molding that covers the gap between a pair of doors when closed. The
astragal is fixed vertically to the back of the outer edge on one of
the doors. It also stops or limits draughts and rain.
Also... Hinging the door/s to the surrounding trim (door casing) allows for the doors to be opened right back 180°
Use 150x25 (1x6) tongue-and-groove lumber for the vertical door slats and 100x25 (1x4) for the door bracing.
Use a lumber suitable for exterior applications such as cedar or treated pine.
Step one. Cut 10 T&G (tongue-and-groove) door slats [d1] 2250mm (90") long.
Step two. On an even surface join five slats [d1] together with the face (best side) up forming a rectangular panel.
The width of the rectangular panel will be wider than the required door width at this stage.
Step three. Cut three pieces of 100x25 (1x4) horizontal braces [d2] the same width as the rectangular panel,
arrange them in their right places
and screw them to the
door slates. Refer to fig.1 for the placement of the horizontal braces.
Use wood screws suitable for exterior use and of a length just slightly
less that the thickness of the brace and slat combined.
Step four. Turn the rectangular panel over. Measure and mark the required door width central on the panel and cut off (rip down) the
excess each side.
Step five. Cut off the top 45° corner.
Step six. Turn the panel over. Measure, mark, cut and screw in place the three 100x25 (1x4) angled braces [d2].
Door one is finished.
Step seven. Make a second door the same as the first by repeating steps two-thru-six and use fig.1
Make the second door a mirror image of the first, that means that the
top 45° corner on the second door will be opposite to that of the
Use the fig.1 dimensions as a guide only. The exact door
measurements should be taken from the door opening (rough opening) in
the wall frame once the shed shell (frame, siding, roof) is complete.
Allow 6mm (1/4") gap between the door and frame all the way around and
between the two doors.
Step eight. Add the hinges to the horizontal braces on the doors
and then 'hang' the doors in place by fastening the loose ends of the
to the trim surrounding the door opening (see picture at the top of the
Step nine. Fix 50x25 (1x2) molding (door stop) to the jamb
around the inside perimeter of the door/s to cover the gap between the door edge and the jamb.
NOTE: Do not fix the door stop tight against the door on the hinged
side. A little bit of play is needed to ensure the edge of the door
does not bind
against the door stop when the door is being opened or closed.
Step ten. Fix a length of 50x25 (1x2) wood [d3] (the astragal)
vertically half-on to the back of the outer edge
on one of the doors. (see fig.2)
Step eleven. Add the slide bolts and latch set.
Final note. Wind: It is presumed that this shed will be tucked
away in a sheltered part of the back yard without any real concern
about the wind, and because it is a heavy and solid structure, it is
highly unlikely that it is going to blow away under normal conditions.
If the shed is situated in a windy area and there are concerns,
then additional securing measures should be taken. The shed will need
to be fastened against uplift.
1.) Concrete a pile or post into the ground under each corner of
the shed and fasten to the bottom plate with a metal strap or similar
type of fastener.
2.) At each corner fasten the bottom plate to the stud with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
3.) At each corner fasten the stud to the top plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.