How to build a 2100mm x 2400mm (7ft x 8 ft)
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Page nine: Nailing and Fastening Information
For the most part of this project galvanized common nails can be used. A common nail has a flattish round head about twice the diameter of the nails shank that is clearly visible after the nail has been driven home.
However, If you prefer a finished external wall covering (siding) that does not display any nail heads then a nail such as a 'brad' that can be set (punched) in to the wood and covered with putty or filler will need to be used.
Use 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails to construct the floor frame and to 'toenail' the joists to the skids.
Use 60mm (2 1/2") galvanized nails to fix the plywood floor to the floor frame nailing 150mm (6") apart along the seams (where the sheets join) and a maximum of 200mm (8") apart around the perimeter
and along all intermediate joists .
Use 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails for all wall and roof framework. Use 2 nails at each meeting.
Most nailing options are obvious. Where possible face nail and end nail. For example, end nail all plates to studs. When it is not possible to
'end nail' such as with a row of blocking between studs, then the only option is to toenail.
When the rafters are made up according to plan and fixed in position on the sidewall top plates, secure against uplift by nailing a hurricane tie to the bottom of each rafter and the top plate as shown in the drawing. Use eight 38mm (1 1/2) galvanized flathead nails per hurricane tie or special product nails that may come with the
purchase of the hurricane ties.
Use 50mm (2") galvanized nails.
Nail a maximum of 200 (8") apart along all rafters, raking top plates, top plates and ridge blocking.
Nail the boards to the horizontal blocking with 60mm (2 1/2") galvanized nails
spaced approximately 75mm (3") apart (including the nail that will be going thru the Batten).
Use 90mm (3 1/2") galvanized nails.
Nail thru the roof boards where they overlap. Nail along the lines of the rafters and raking top plates.
Use 75mm (3") galvanized nails. Nail on the center line of the batten, through the gap between the boards and into the blocking.
Trim, Rake board, Rake cap
Use 75mm (3") galvanized nails and nail where necessary.
Final note. Wind:
It is presumed that this shed will be tucked away in a sheltered part of the back yard without any real concern about the wind, and because it is a heavy and solid structure, it is highly unlikely that it is going to blow away under normal conditions.
If the shed is situated in a windy area and there are concerns, then additional securing measures should be taken. The shed will need to be fastened against uplift.
1.) Concrete a pile or post into the ground under each corner of the shed and fasten to the bottom plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
2.) At each corner fasten the bottom plate to the stud with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
3.) At each corner fasten the stud to the top plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.