Table of Contents
Nailing and Fastening Information
For the most part of this project Covered with a protective coating of zinc. common nails can be used. A Common nails have heads that are clearly visible after the nails have been driven home. They are used for general construction such as wall framing or other such situations where appearance is not important. has a flattish round head about twice the diameter of the nails The nail not including the head. that is clearly visible after the A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. has been driven home.
However, If you prefer a finished external wall covering (The outer covering of a building meant to shed water and protect from the effects of weather.) that does not display any nail heads then a nail such as a ‘brad’ that can be How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. (punched) in to the Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees and covered with putty or filler will need to be used.
Use 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized nails for all wall and roof framework. Use 2 nails at each meeting.
Most nailing options are obvious. Where possible The widest side of a piece of wood. nail and end nail. For example, end nail all plates to studs. When it is not possible to ‘end nail’ such as with a row of Blocks, see Block. between studs, then the only option is to Join two pieces of wood by driving nails at an angle to the surface of one piece and into the second piece. A nail driven at an angle to fasten one member to another..
Use 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized nails to construct the floor frame and to ‘toenail’ the joists to the skids.
Use 60mm (2 1/2″) galvanized nails to To secure with nails or screws. the A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. floor to the floor frame nailing 150mm (6″) apart along the seams (where the sheets join) and a maximum of 200mm (8″) apart around the boundary. and along all intermediate joists .
When the rafters are made up according to plan and fixed in position on the sidewall top plates, secure against uplift by nailing a Also called 'rafter tie'. A galvanized metal fastener used to tie rafters to wall frames to help prevent uplift. to the bottom of each Structural member of a roof that supports the roof load and runs from the ridge to the top of the side walls. and the The top horizontal framing member of the wall. as shown in the drawing. Use eight 38mm (1 1/2) galvanized flathead nails per hurricane tie or special product nails that may come with the purchase of the hurricane ties.
Roof A protective covering of boards or plywood applied to the studs or rafters of a building to strengthen it and serve as a foundation for a weatherproof exterior.
Use 50mm (2″) galvanized nails. Nail a maximum of 200 (8″) apart along all rafters, Running parallel with the slope of the roof at the gable. top plates, top plates and The horizontal line at the top of opposing sloping sides of a roof running parallel with the building length. blocking.
Plumb, upright. Boards
Nail the boards to the Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. blocking with 60mm (2 1/2″) galvanized nails spaced approximately 75mm (3″) apart (including the nail that will be going thru the Narrow board used to cover cladding joins.).
Boards used to cover the roof.
Use 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized nails. Nail thru the roof boards where they overlap. Nail along the lines of the rafters and raking top plates.
Vertical Narrow board used to cover claddingThe exterior surface of a building. joins or used for decorative purposes.
Use 75mm (3″) galvanized nails. Nail on the center line of the batten, through the gap between the boards and into the blocking.
The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens., Exterior visible flat trim board that follows the rake of the roof. Also called barge board or gable fascia., A piece of board that caps the top of the rake board and the ends of the roof boards.
Use 75mm (3″) galvanized nails and nail where necessary.
Final note. Wind:
It is presumed that this shed will be tucked away in a sheltered part of the back yard without any real concern about the wind, and because it is a heavy and solid structure, it is highly unlikely that it is going to blow away under normal conditions. However….. If the shed is situated in a windy area and there are concerns, then additional securing measures should be taken. The shed will need to be fastened against uplift.
1.) A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry. a A column-like member supporting the structure from the ground. or see PILE into the ground under each corner of the shed and fasten to the The bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. with a Short lengths of metal strap 25×1 (1/16×1) used to fix members together to resist uplift. or similar type of fastener.
2.) At each corner fasten the bottom The top or bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. to the A 100×50 (2×4) vertical framing member used to construct walls. with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.
3.) At each corner fasten the stud to the top plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.