Table of Contents
- 1Preface
- 2Wood sizes and measurements
- 3Materials list
- 4The flat plan
- 5The front elevation plan
- 6The side elevation plan
- 7The nesting boxes and storage area plans
- 8Making the floor and the wall frames
- 9Making the nests and the roof frame
- 10Fixing the wall cladding
- 11Fixing the roof boards and battens
- 12Door, hatchway and windows
- 13The perch, the mesh and ventilation
DoorA horizontal framing member above the door/window opening., hatchway and windows
Step 7. Door, hatchway, and windows
The door
A basic door can be made from 3/4″ (18mm) thick exterior plywoodA piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue..
A hole can be cut out for a window and covered with a piece of clear acrylic sheetAny broad, thin surface. (plastic glass) about 2″ (50mm) bigger than the hole, all the way around. The acrylic sheet can be fixed to the door with screws. Drill the screw holes in the sheet first and apply a beadBeading. Thin line of sealant. of clear waterproof sealantA pliable substance used to seal a surface to prevent passage of a liquid. around the edge of the acrylic sheet before screwing it in place.
The door should have a 1/4″ (6mm) gap each side and the bottom should be slightly above the top of the litter boardA piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide.. When the door is hinged in place (to open in), add the door stops (see diagram).
The windows
The windows in the walls can be made in the same way as the door window (mentioned above).
The hatchway
Make the chicken hatchway door so that it is hinged at the bottom and can be opened down to form a ramp. Make the door bigger than the hole, so when the door is closed it will fit between the battensNarrow board used to cover claddingThe exterior surface of a building. joins or used for decorative purposes. on the side and tuck neatly under the flashingAny piece of material, usually metal or plastic, installed to prevent water from penetrating the structure. at the top.
You will need to add some type of pad boltA metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. or latchThe locking device on a door or window. to keep the hatchway door closed.
I have been a fan of your site for a few years, but have no woodworking experience. Two years ago we purchased a farm.
My first project was a work bench, although I didn’t use any specific plans, I did use skills I read about on your site.
When we acquired two chickens it was time to put my limited skills to use!
This chicken coop is my first big project. I made it 4′ x 4′ x 4′ and insulated it for a Canadian winter. It didn’t need a roof, being in our barn, but I wanted to build one anyway.
The picture shows the coop before it is insulated and outer plywood put on. It often reaches -15 C even inside the barn
Thanks for great plans. We and the chickens love their coop (made a few changes to suit us)
Melva & David Brady
Hi,
I used your free plans to build this chicken coop. Although I have NO experience it came together without too many glitches. I did change the inside a little but for the most part, I did what your plans suggested.
I would recommend these plans to anyone with little or no building experience.
Just wanted to share some pics.
Thanks a million.
Frankie.
We built your chicken coop. Here is a photo or two.
John Beaty
Hello,
I just finished a chicken coop based off your plans. Your site was a lot of help with Ideas. Thanks
I did make many changes most of them are cosmetic to match the house, the biggest change is I framed it like you would a house and used pier pads for the foundation. This made it much easier to insulate and sheet the inside walls.
I would say with all the labor that went into this project if I was to do it again I would make it 8’x 8′. It wouldn’t take much more in labor but it would increase your material cost.
I call it an architectural out building sounds better when I look at the material and labor cost. LOL
Thanks again I hope you enjoy the pic’s ED
Hi, Just wanted to say thanks to you. Through your website I got the inspiration to build my own hen house. It was a lot cheaper than commercially available ones and was specific to my needs. I now have four hens and they laid their first egg today. Great. Thanks,
MickE
Great plans. Built your coop with some modifications. Made it 6’x8′ to accommodate larger flock. Had a sloping site so we poured cement pillars. Increased the overhang all around to match overhang on our house and provide additional shelter. Got a couple small windows off craigslist and made one windw of our own. Installed an old barn door we had in the garage. Looks great with its rusty old hinges. Because we live in Massachusetts we put the nesting boxes inside the coop to keep them a bit warmer. Also made the nesting boxes 9″ high to discourage eating of, and soiling of, the eggs (read somewhere that it helps). Made the chicken door guillotine style with a pulley system so that we can open and close it without going into the house or the yard. Have a roosting rack that folds up with a removable board below it to shunt droppings to a cleanout door, which is at wheelbarrow height for collecting discarded shavings. Took about 4 good weekends all told with fencing in the yard. The family pitched in which made it more fun. Cost about $900. Chicks move in soon.
Tim Mangini