Table of Contents
- 1Preface
- 2Wood sizes and measurements
- 3Materials list
- 4The flat plan
- 5The front elevation plan
- 6The side elevation plan
- 7The nesting boxes and storage area plans
- 8Making the floor and the wall frames
- 9Making the nests and the roof frame
- 10Fixing the wall cladding
- 11Fixing the roof boards and battens
- 12Door, hatchway and windows
- 13The perch, the mesh and ventilation
WoodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees sizes and measurements
All measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard/Imperial inches and MetricMillimeter measurements. (mmAbbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.).
The measurements are given first in inches followed by millimetres in brackets (mm).
The size (width and thickness) of the wood referred to throughout this project is the nominal sizeThe rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2")..
That is in reference to the size of the lumberAny of the framing wood. before it has been dressedSurfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. (surfacedSee Dressed. planed and/or seasoned).
When the wood has been dressed, (surfaced planed and/or seasoned) it is then called the ‘actual size’ which is the true size.
The actual sizeThe finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. of lumber is smaller than the nominal size.
For example, if you have a piece of wood (lets say a piece of 2 x 4) in its rough state (prior to being dressed)
its size will be just that, 2″ x 4″ (two inches thick by four inches wide). However, once it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned), the finished wood will measure approximately 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ which is the
‘actual’ size (one and a half inches thick by three and a half inches wide).
Most Countries that use the Metric system generally call the bigger numeral first such as 100mm x 50mm.
whereas those that use the ImperialStandard. Feet and inch measurements. system generally put the smaller numeral first such as 2″ x 4″.
Rough or dressed wood, how does it matter?
In the overall scheme of things, it doesn’t matter that much. Use either rough or dressed. Rough wood is usually cheaper but dressed wood is
easier to work with and paint. Just remember to make allowances for the size difference when working off the plan if you use dressed (actual size) wood.
Below is a ‘nominal’ versus ‘actual’ list with all the wood sizes used in this project.
Standard (inches):
Nominal size 2″ x 2″ vs Actual size 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
Nominal size 2″ x 3″ vs Actual size 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
Nominal size 2″ x 4″ vs Actual size 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
Nominal size 4″ x 4″ vs Actual size 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
Nominal size 1″ x 4″ vs Actual size 3/4″ x 3 1/2″
Nominal size 1″ x 6″ vs Actual size 3/4″ x 5 1/2″
Nominal size 1″ x 12″ vs Actual size 3/4″ x 11 1/4″
Metric (millimetres)
Nominal size 50mm x 50mm vs Actual size 45mm x 45mm
Nominal size 75mm x 50mm vs Actual size 70mm x 45mm
Nominal size 100mm x 50mm vs Actual size 90mm x 45mm
Nominal size 100mm x 100mm vs Actual size 90mm x 90mm
Nominal size 100mm x 25mm vs Actual size 90mm x 19mm
Nominal size 150mm x 25mm vs Actual size 140mm x 19mm
Nominal size 300mm x 25mm vs Actual size 290mm x 19mm
I have been a fan of your site for a few years, but have no woodworking experience. Two years ago we purchased a farm.
My first project was a work bench, although I didn’t use any specific plans, I did use skills I read about on your site.
When we acquired two chickens it was time to put my limited skills to use!
This chicken coop is my first big project. I made it 4′ x 4′ x 4′ and insulated it for a Canadian winter. It didn’t need a roof, being in our barn, but I wanted to build one anyway.
The picture shows the coop before it is insulated and outer plywood put on. It often reaches -15 C even inside the barn
Thanks for great plans. We and the chickens love their coop (made a few changes to suit us)
Melva & David Brady
Hi,
I used your free plans to build this chicken coop. Although I have NO experience it came together without too many glitches. I did change the inside a little but for the most part, I did what your plans suggested.
I would recommend these plans to anyone with little or no building experience.
Just wanted to share some pics.
Thanks a million.
Frankie.
We built your chicken coop. Here is a photo or two.
John Beaty
Hello,
I just finished a chicken coop based off your plans. Your site was a lot of help with Ideas. Thanks
I did make many changes most of them are cosmetic to match the house, the biggest change is I framed it like you would a house and used pier pads for the foundation. This made it much easier to insulate and sheet the inside walls.
I would say with all the labor that went into this project if I was to do it again I would make it 8’x 8′. It wouldn’t take much more in labor but it would increase your material cost.
I call it an architectural out building sounds better when I look at the material and labor cost. LOL
Thanks again I hope you enjoy the pic’s ED
Hi, Just wanted to say thanks to you. Through your website I got the inspiration to build my own hen house. It was a lot cheaper than commercially available ones and was specific to my needs. I now have four hens and they laid their first egg today. Great. Thanks,
MickE
Great plans. Built your coop with some modifications. Made it 6’x8′ to accommodate larger flock. Had a sloping site so we poured cement pillars. Increased the overhang all around to match overhang on our house and provide additional shelter. Got a couple small windows off craigslist and made one windw of our own. Installed an old barn door we had in the garage. Looks great with its rusty old hinges. Because we live in Massachusetts we put the nesting boxes inside the coop to keep them a bit warmer. Also made the nesting boxes 9″ high to discourage eating of, and soiling of, the eggs (read somewhere that it helps). Made the chicken door guillotine style with a pulley system so that we can open and close it without going into the house or the yard. Have a roosting rack that folds up with a removable board below it to shunt droppings to a cleanout door, which is at wheelbarrow height for collecting discarded shavings. Took about 4 good weekends all told with fencing in the yard. The family pitched in which made it more fun. Cost about $900. Chicks move in soon.
Tim Mangini
There are many advantages to owning your own chickens. Farm fresh eggs are healthier, tastier, and readily available from your own back yard. Meat birds are fast growing, take little space to raise and are fairly inexpensive for the resulting outcome in food production. Raising your own chickens means you get to decide what goes into the making of the final product.