So… You already have a solid 1800mm (6ft) high fence around your pool area but the towering houses surrounding your property still look down into the yard.
A 2500mm (8′-4″) high fence would probably do the trick but that would make the house look like a fortress (if not downright ugly!) and anyway, you would need council approval to construct a boundary fence higher than 2000mm (6′-8″), as well as the neighbors’ permission.
Oh dear, what can be done? Can anything be done that still gives privacy and looks nice? YES! This trellis (lattice) high walkthrough screen not only looks nice, but can also be the feature of the yard.
To make a trellis (lattice) screen of types protruding at least 700mm (2′-4″) higher than the existing 1800mm (6ft) fence, without taking any area away from the existing pool area or courtyard, while at the same time giving a higher degree of privacy and also creating a feature for the yard.
A trellis (lattice) screen reaching a height of 2500mm (8′-4″) to be placed 1 metre (39″) inside the boundary fence. The top portion of the screen to be continuous and supported by framed trellis (lattice) panels 500mm (20″) wide, spaced every 2100mm (7ft) or so apart and high enough to walk under. Thus enabling walking between the panels and between the screen and boundary fence, while taking virtually no area away from the yard.
Add a planter-box around a couple of panels at one end, a small raised deck at the other end, and presto… you have a privacy screen that takes up very little area and is an attractive feature!
The plan view (birds-eye view looking down) is of the trellis (lattice) screen, planter-box and deck layout, as well as a cross-section plan of the planter-box and a section plan of the trellis (lattice) panel.
- Framework – 100×100 (4×4) dressed pressure treated timber or similar, suited for in-ground applications. Posts concreted 600mm (2ft) into ground;
- Trellis (lattice) – constructed of 30mm x 10mm (3/8″ x 1 1/4″) pressure treated battens or similar, suited for exterior use, with 25mm (1″) gaps;
- Beading (to hold trellis in frames) – 25×25 (1×1) pressure treated timber or similar, suited for exterior use.
This pergola is called the ‘box’ pergola because it is built with rows of solid blockings/nogs between the rafters forming rows of square or oblong boxes. This type of pergola is becoming increasingly popular and is relatively easy to build.
|150×50 (2×6) treated lumber rafters, blockings/nogs and decorative ends||30 metres (100 ft)|
|200×50 (2×8) treated lumber beam||3.6 metres (12 ft)|
|100×100 (4×4) treated lumber||7.2 metres (24 ft)|
|1kg (2.5 lb) gal 90mm (3 1/2″) nails; 20 galvanized nail plates; 8 12mmx120mm (1/2″x 5″) galvanized coach/carriage bolts, 2 bags concrete mix|
About the lumber
All the lumber used in this project is treated dressed/surfaced pine. The posts are treated for in ground applications. and the rest of the structure is treated for outside use. All the lumber that is used in this project is readily available at most lumber merchants.
The lumber sizes referred to in this project are the nominal sizes. The nominal size of a piece of lumber is the size of the lumber before it is dressed or seasoned and is the size generally referred to when purchasing from the lumber yard. The actual size, or dressed size of the lumber will be less than the nominal size so please make necessary allowances. For example, a piece of 100×50 (2×4) lumber when dressed may be 90×45 (1 1/2″x 3 1/2″) actual size.
The pergola in this example is 9m (30ft) long x 2.4m (8ft) wide.
The project is broken into sections (pages) which include working plans, construction details, roof details, and materials. Each section contains it’s own instructions and diagrams etc.
The lumber list is at bottom of this page.
Lumber required for the lean-to pergola
|100×50 (2×4) suitable for exterior use||rafters 13 @ 2.4m (8ft); purlins and ledger 50m (166ft)||82m (270ft)|
|100×100 (4×4) suitable for exterior use||posts 5 @ 3m (10ft)||15m (50ft)|
|200×50 (2×8) suitable for exterior use||Beam 2 @ 4.5m (15ft)||9m (30ft)|
|150×25 (1×6) fascia bd||front fascia bd and side barge bd.||18m (60ft)|
The plans for the lean-to pergola. An example of working plans for a lean-to pergola and roof, 9m (30ft) long x 2.4m (8ft) wide.
Below is an example of working plans for a lean-to pergola and roof, 9m (30ft) long x 2.4m (8ft) wide.
The Site Plan
This plan shows the placement of the pergola in relation to the existing house and boundaries.
The Flat Plan (footprint)
The flat plan is an arial (looking down) view of the pergola addition.
It shows the overall dimensions of the project and information such as footing placements, bearer and rafter placement and spacings between rafters.
The Cross-Section Plan
The cross section plan is a plan taken from a cross section of the flat plan. The cross section shows lumber sizes and footing size.
A detail plan is accompanied to give clearer detail.
A detail plan is a blow up (magnified) part of the plan.
The Elevation Plan
The elevation plan is more like a drawing of the outside of the addition rather than a plan although is still drawn to scale. The elevation plan gives a good perspective of the addition to the untrained eye.
Section 1.1. Introduction
This is a compact race car bed and is a good size for kids up to the age of 8 or so. It does not take up nearly as much room as a standard single bed, so it is ideal for a room where space is a premium.
I made this for one of my grand-kids and it proved an immediate hit. I don’t think I have ever seen a kid more proud of a bed.
Sometimes there’s a need for a parent to climb in next to their little one for a bit of a snuggle or two. This design allows for just that. Although this bed is compact, an adult can still lie next to their child as there are no feet barriers – hence, longer legs and the feet of a bigger person can hang past the front, unimpeded.
It is made out of 3/4″ (18mm) custom MDF board for the car frame, and 3/4″ x 3 1/2′ (90 mm x 19 mm) wood for the bed base.
Section 1.2. The size of it
The bed base is 63″ (1575 mm) long and 28 1/2″ (712 mm) wide.
The overall size of the unit is 69¼” (1731mm) long, 31½” (787mm) wide, and 2ft (600mm) high.
Section 1.3. Wood size – Measurements given
About the measurements given:
The measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard (inches) and Metric (mm).
The standard measurements are given first followed by the metric measurements in brackets (). For example: 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ (90 mm x 19 mm).
For rounding-off and practical purposes, and in order to be able to apply the same grid plan to both the imperial and metric systems, the imperial (standard, inch) sizes in this project are not an exact match to the equivalent metric sizes. In this content 1″ equates to 25mm – not an exact match so use one system or the other but do not mix and match and you will be just fine.
Managing a small flock of chickens is much easier if you do not have to get up and open the chicken coop door in the morning and close the chicken door after dusk.
Also, the chickens are safer, if the door opens and closes automatically.
One of the facts that one learns when taking care of chickens is that everything (foxes, coyotes, raccoons, possums, hawks, dogs, humans…) loves to eat chicken.
To keep the chickens safe, it is a good idea to shut the coop door just after dusk (most chicken predators are nocturnal).
Having an automatic chicken coop door makes shutting the door easier and more reliable.
It also makes one’s life easier, when you want to go to a movie, go shopping; come home late from the office, or a myriad of other things you do at dusk.
Having decided to design and build an automatic chicken coop door, I went to the World Wide Web and used Google I tried to find a commercial product or someone’s home made design for an automatic door. I found a commercial product (attached to a chicken coop), but it was too expensive. I also found a home made design that was clever and a reasonable cost. I decided to pursue the home made design and reengineer it for my situation. Figure 1 shows the reengineered, finished configuration.
It is composed of the following list of parts:
1). Chicken coop door, aluminum 1/8″ thick cut to fit opening.
2). Motor drapery controller, model no: AAM80
3). Cord between the motor and the door, nylon 1/8″
4). Intermatic appliance timer, model no: TN311C
5). Weight (~ the weight of the door)
And cost about $120 in parts. We won’t discuss the cost of labor.
Continuing the design concept description, the coop must have electricity w/two electrical plugs. The Motor Drapery Controller automatically changes the direction of the motor when it reaches the end of drive. One sets the distance of the drive (to open the chicken door ~1 ft).
When it raises the door ~1 ft. it automatically stops and switches the direction of the motor.
The next time the motor drapery controller is turned on, it drives in the opposite direction ~1 ft, that is, it closes the door.
It is important for the operation of the motor drapery controller to drive a load in both directions. When it opens the door it is lifting the weight of the door. It needs a weight on the opposite end of the cord, so when it closes the door, it lifts the weight and keeps the cord taught.
To energize the motor drapery controller, an Appliance Timer is used.
One sets the Appliance Timer (with supplied plastic inserts) for sun rise and dusk. As the electric clock moves through it daily rotation the motor drapery controller is activated by the clock switch at dawn and dusk and the door opens and closes, respectively.
The chickens roost according to the time of day, so it is important to set the timing of the door according to the chicken’s internal clock or you will have some unhappy and unprotected chickens.
If you are far from the equator, dawn and dusk change summer, fall, winter and spring, so you need to change the switching time twice or four times a year.
The following description will include specific details of the design required to make the automatic chicken door design operate reliably.
First, the chicken coop door must operate easily and reliably. My aluminum sheet door (1/8″ aluminum) is not bent and slides in a 3/8″ slide.
The door has a hole drilled about 1/2″ from the top in the center.
It is important that the whole be in the center, so the door draws up and slides down easily without canting in one direction or the other and catching on one of the slides.
Figure 2 shows a cross section of the door and slides. Attach the cord to the door and make sure the door opens and closes easily and reliably.
Mount the motor drapery controller above the door. The cord should go directly vertical, which means the motor will be mounted with a slight offset (the size of the diameter of the motor pulley), as shown in Figure 3.
The length of the cord needed and the length of the motor drive (time motor is on) need to be matched with the amount the door must move to open and close.
It is possible to set the motor drive by changing the little plastic arms on the motor pulley. The closer they are to the switch, the shorter the drive time and the smaller the door movement.
The little plastic arms rotate around the diameter of the motor pulley. They can be easily adjusted. If you plug in the motor drapery controller power supply to 110 VAC plug, the motor will move.
Wait till the movement is complete. Un-plugging and re-plugging the power supply will drive the motor in the opposite direction.
Adjust the little plastic arms until the door opens and closes enough to let the chickens in an out.
Attach the weight to the opposite end of the drive cord so it does not interfere with the door, as it moves up and down. Plug in the appliance timer into the socket in the coop. Set the timer for the correct time of day. Determine when you want the door to open and close the door, for example in the Spring in New England (Boston) 6:00 am and 7:30 pm. Place the black (or green) inserts into the clock wheel at those locations. Place the red inserts into the wheel about half an hour later. The black (or green) inserts energize the plug in the side of the timer. The red inserts deactivate the plug in the side of the timer. The motor controller has to be turned off or it will not see the next turn on.
Plug the drapery motor controller power supply into the plug on the timer. Try your settings by manually rotating the timer wheel and watch the door move up and down. After the door starts to move, let it complete its movement before you continue to move the timer. If the experiment works, and the door moves up and down, as you want it to move, reset your appliance time to the correct time and let it do its work.
You may have to make some adjustments to get your door movement in synchronization with the chicken’s internal clocks. Such is the way of the world. Chickens get up with the sun and go to roost after the sun sets. You do not have to train them. They are hard wired, but there is variation in every flock and you do not want to trap a chicken outside. When I first set up the system, I locked a chicken outside the coop and she was upset. I changed the setting on the timer and have never locked a chicken outside again.
Add-A-Motor Drapery Control
Part Number: AAM80
Open-close up to 15 feet wide
Center-open up to 30 feet
Fabric weights up to 60 pounds
Motorize Vertical Blinds
Rotate or traverse
Rotate to virtually any angle
Traverse up to 15 feet wide
Center-open up to 30 feet
Motorize Shades and Mini-Blinds
Lift and lower shades up to 12 feet tall
Most widths and fabric weights
Tilt mini-blinds that have chain control instead of a wand
Easy to Install The Model 80 attaches to the loop-end of any size cord, or metal or plastic bead-chain, without modification. Chain connector can pass through motor without affecting operation. Motor affixes to wall with supplied “Fast Anchors”…no drilling.
CORRECTIVE UPDATE POST: RE THE ADD-A-MOTOR
Please note the following.
My company manufactures the Add-a-Motor Model 80 motor featured in your guideline. The Model 80 is not approved for this application. Many people see your webpage and then purchase the wrong motor from our dealers. The Model 80 can fail in a few months when used with a chicken coop door. The correct motor for this application is our Model D20 motor which is specifically designed to operate chicken coop doors.
I respectfully request that you modify your webpage and provide the correct motor information. If you are interested in detailed D20 product information, please visit www.add-a-motor.com/Model D20 Motor for Chicken Coop Doors.htm
Automatically moves window covering to fully opened, closed or any two desired positions.
Opens and closes at a natural speed.
Set-n-Forget. Plug-in ready. No electrician required.
Compact size: 2 x 3 x 4 inches (approximate).
Heavy-duty appliance quality.
Includes power supply.
Child Safety Features:
Cord/chain loop is secured inside case.
Low voltage DC motor.
Maximum run duration 45 seconds.
Sensor can interrupt or prevent cycle.
Patented stop security.
No-tools wall mount release.
Versatile: Operate and window covering that has a loop-end cord or bead-chain (new or existing).
Practical: Combine various types of controllers for multiple benefits. Example: Remote, plus a timer offers convenience, security and energy savings.
Operate hard to reach window coverings.
Aid the elderly and disabled.
Light-feed plants. Prevent fading.
Affordable automation anywhere: home, office, rental property, vacation home.
Drapery Controller Operation
The Model 80 Add-A-Motor opens and closes draperies, vertical blinds, horizontal blinds, roman shades, and shades that have a pull cord (or ball-chain) with a “U’ shaped end-loop. Its drive wheel fits cord (chain) supplied by all window covering manufacturers. It can be operated on a time schedule, or by remote control according to the features of the control switch supplied by the consumer.
The Model 80 opens and closes window coverings (WC) to all positions that can be selected by hand operating the WC cord (chain). It can be set to open and close a WC partway, all-the way, and all positions between. Virtually any two positions can be set as Automatic Open and Close stop positions. It does not have a built in timer.
HOW THE MODEL 80 WORKS
Similar to hand operating the Window Covering, the Motor can pull the cord (chain) in 2-directions to open and close the WC. The Motor “knows” to reverse the direction of travel for each new operating Cycle. The Motor is controlled by two adjustable Stop Position Screws that allow you to set virtually any two Automatic Stop Positions.
The Model 80 runs until an Automatic Stop Position is reached, or until the WC is all-the-way open or closed. The normal run time is about 20 seconds. To prevent the Motor from running continuously it has an electronic “supervisor’ that automatically turns it OFF after 45 to 60 seconds. It also has a Drive Wheel designed to slip if certain conditions exist.
CONNECTING TO THE DESIRED CONTROL SWITCH
Automatic Clock-Switch, or Sensor
Clock- switch with 4 or more ON/OFF settings.
Sound (clap), motion, temperature activated switch.
Sound (clap), motion, temperature activated switch.
Remote Control Wall Switch, or Wireless
Wall switch that controls power to a wall outlet.
Radio frequency (RF) or infrared (IR) Receiver-Switch plugged into an AC wall outlet, and controlled by a hand-held Transmitter.
Automatic + Remote Programmable Switch
Programmable wall switch that controls a wall outlet. These offer time and manual operation.
Programmable Controller (X-10 protocol) that transmits ON/OFF signals through house wiring. These control a Receiver-Switch plugged into a wall outlet.
Same features as above.
Central Systems: home automation, electric power management – Smart House, CEBus, LONworks
TIME SCHEDULE OPERATIONS
Select a Clock-switch with 2 ON plus 2 OFF settings, or more. Set it to the current time. Proceed as follows:
EXAMPLE:To automatically open window covering at 7:45 AM, and close it at 8:30 PM, set four (4) actuation times as follows:
1. Set a 7:45 AM ON actuation time.
2. Set a 7:46 AM OFF actuation time, or as soon as possible after.
3. Set a 8:30 PM ON actuation time.
4. Set a 8:31 PM OFF actuation time, or as soon as possible after.
The number of “ON” settings determines the number of times the WC can be opened and closed daily. A clock-switch with 6 ON settings can open the WC up to 3 times daily, plus close them 3 times daily; a total of 6 movements. Each ON causes the Motor to move the WC to the next Stop Position. Some switches permit 12 or more WC movements daily, with different times on weekends.
Intermatic 120V Appliance Timer
This heavy duty grounded timer from Intermatic allows for automatic control of air conditioners, heaters, and heavy-duty lamps and appliances. It plugs directly into standard 120V 3-prong wall outlets and permits up to 2 on/off settings per day.
Placement of the green trippers determines when the connected appliance is turned on, and placement of the red trippers determines when the appliance is turned off.
It’s a good idea to get into good safety practices at an early age.
If you do not know how to use a tool properly, ask someone for help. This isn’t just for safety; using tools properly can also make the work easier and give your projects a much more professional look.
Try not to get so excited that you rush and make mistakes. If you take your time, you will be happier with the results in the end.
Have capable adults use any electric tools unless under strict supervision. Even if you are only using a non-electrical hand drill, you should still wear goggles as a drill bit can sometimes snap and fly through the air.
Wear safety goggles and always take care using tools. Remember, even professional builders use safety equipment.
Use treated lumber that has been lying around for a while and allowed to become surface-dry, (not fresh and wet from the processing treating plant). Wear gloves when handling treated lumber and use a dust mask when cutting or sanding where dust is generated.All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of properly. Don’t burn it, cook with it or use it for animal litter. Wash hands before eating and wash work clothes separately from other household clothing. Dispose of waste in an approved landfill. Do not use preserved wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food, animal feed, or beehives.Some timber merchants have pamphlets on how to use treated timber. Read them!We recommend you get into good safety practices at an early age.