How to make a concrete Post Cap

Making the form

Cutting the mold pieces

When the glue dried the temporary holding nails were pulled out of the length of formwork and the clamps were removed.

The formwork was then cut into the pieces required to make the mold.
The mold was made in ‘picture frame’ type fashion.

The inside measurement at the narrowest point was 20mm (3/4″) more than the thickness of the gate postsee PILE.

In short, the bottom of the finished concreteA mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry. capCover was to be bigger than the top of the concrete post by 10mm (3/8″) all the way around.

The pieces that made up the mold

When all the mold pieces were cut there were…

1) Four pieces that made the lower part of the mold [m1].

2) Four pieces to make the upper part of the mold [m2].

3) One piece of 20mm (3/4″) thick sheetAny broad, thin surface. boardA piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. (plywoodA piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. or similar) to make the base of the mold [m3].

4) Four strips of woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees [m4] fixed to the top of the lower part of the mold [m1] to hold the upper part of the mold [m3] in place. (See next page).

Assembling the mold

The upper [m2] and lower [m1] mold was put together in picture frame type fashion.

All the corners were screwed together so that the mold could be easily disassembled.

The base [m3] was then screwed to the underside of lower part of the mold [m1].

Applying oil and diesel to the mold

A mixture of 50% used car oil and 50% diesel was brushed over the mold.

The mixture acted as a releasing agent, allowing the mold to be pulled cleanly away once the concrete had dried.