Table of Contents
- 1Preface
- 2Introduction
- 3The wood and the size of the dolls house
- 4Steps 1 to 3. The eave soffit, the frieze board and preparing for the roof
- 5Step 4. Cutting the roof pieces
- 6Step 5. Putting the roof together
- 7Step 6. Fitting the dormer front wall
- 8Steps 7 to 8: Cutting the wall, floor and door pieces and cutting the arched internal doorways
- 9Steps 9 to 10 Fixing the vertical side strips and assembling the walls, floors and doors
- 10Step 10 continued... Assembling the walls, floors, and doors
- 11Step 11. Making the spiral staircase
- 12Step 12. A bit of paint and that's that
The wood and the size of the dolls house
The wood
Ft and inch version:
The dollhouse is constructed from 1/2″ MDF board, with the exception of the eave and frieze boards, which are made from 3/4″ thick wood. There is also a 3/4″ x 3/4″ strip of wood that runs up the front of each side wall to give support to the door hinges.
Metric version:
The dollhouse is constructed from 12mm MDF board, with the exception of the eave and frieze boards, which are made from 18mm thick wood. There is also a 18mm x 18mm strip of wood that runs up the front of each side wall to give support to the door hinges.
The size of the dollhouse
Ft and inch version:
This dollhouse stands 28″ high. It is 29″ wide x 14¼” deep at the roof. The actual body depth including the doors is 10¼”.
Metric version:
This dollhouse stands 700mm high. It is 725mm wide x 355mm deep at the roof. The actual body depth including the doors is 255mm.
Materials you will need
Ft and inch version:
MDF board 1/2″ thick:
I piece @ 4ft x 4ft.
I piece @ 4ft x 2ft.
All the required MDF pieces can be cut from the sheets mentioned above, as shown in the ‘cutting the pieces from standard sheets’ picture.
● ¾” x 2 ½” wood:
8ft for the eave soffit (piece [11]).
● ¾” x ¾” wood:
10ft for the frieze board and the side strips (pieces [12] and [14]).
● ¾” x 1 ¾” wood:
30″ for the steps (piece [17]).
● ¾” x 1″ wood:
25″ for the front wall beam (piece [13]).
Note: If you cannot source the exact wood sizes (widths and thicknesses) mentioned above, near enough is good enough.
Metric version:
MDF board 12mm thick:
I piece @ 1200mm x 1200mm.
I piece @ 1200mm x 600mm.
All the required MDF pieces can be cut from the sheets mentioned above, as shown in the ‘cutting the pieces from standard sheets’ picture.
● 70mm x 18mm wood:
2400mm for the eave soffit (piece [11]).
● 18mm x 18mm wood:
3000mm for the frieze board and the side strips (pieces [12]and [14]).
● 43mm x 18mm wood:
750mm for the steps (piece [17]).
● 25mm x 18mm wood:
624mm for the front wall beam (piece [13]).
Note: If you cannot source the exact wood sizes (widths and thicknesses) mentioned above, near enough is good enough.
You will also need…
Ft and inch version:
20″ of 1/4″ rod for the staircase pole. It can be steel, aluminum, wire, wood, or just about anything.
And you’ll need some good wood glue and a few small nails.
Metric version:
500mm of 6mm rod for the staircase pole. It can be steel, aluminum, wire, wood, or just about anything.
And you’ll need some good wood glue and a few small nails.
On page 8 of the purchased plans it states to cut both pieces 1a and 1b to an overall length of 29 inches. I think this length should be 26 inches to correspond with the 26 inches used to cut the long side of the eave soffit on page 7. After I got all of the roof pieces cut out I started to put it together and saw that pieces 1a and 1b were too long. Assuming I am correct and 1a and 1b should be 26 inches then my next question is, does the 14 3/4 measurement at the top of 1a and 1b have to be shortend by the same amount or does it stay the same? I am enjoying this project and will be able to not make silly mistakes when I build my second one as soon as I finish this one. I certainly am learning how to cut the 35 and 45 degree angles. The secret when using a skill saw is to always be able to see where the blade is cutting and not rely on the guide on the saw.
Buildeazy reply:
Thank you for pointing that out. There was a measurement error in Step 1. The long side of the eave soffit in Step 1 should be 29 inches (not 26 inches).
It has now been rectified.
Les Kenny
Here a some pictures of my finished doll house. As you can see I added some shutters to the windows. I want to give you some feedback of my experience doing this build.
1. When I had finished the build, the roof did not fit. I had to saw away part of the frieze board to make it fit. The reason for this was that in placing the frieze board in 2 inches from the outside edge of the frame only leaves 10 1/4 inch of space (14.25 minus 4 equals 10.25). The doll house is 9 inches wide plus the back (1/2 inch) plus the board added across the top front for stability (3/4 inch) which totals 10.25. To solve this problem as I build my second doll house, I am putting the frieze boards in by only 1 3/4 inches. This will allow plenty of clearance for the roof to fit.
2. If the two piece 3 pieces are cut as shown on page 6 of the plans they will not work since they are identical. I plan to move the lower piece 3 to the upper right hand corner of the board as a mirror image and I think it will work fine.
3. This one you are already aware of. That is the incorrect length ( 26 vs 29) on the first board I cut on page 7 of the plans.
4. On page 9 of the plans you show the inside of the dormer being trimmed for readiness for the front wall. This would be much easier if you marked the dormer on the front of the roof and trimmed out what is necessary prior to gluing the dormer in place.
Started my second doll house today and hope to have an easier time based on my experience of building my first one.
E. Stevens