Table of Contents
- 1Preface
- 2Introduction
- 3The wood and the size of the dolls house
- 4Steps 1 to 3. The eave soffit, the frieze board and preparing for the roof
- 5Step 4. Cutting the roof pieces
- 6Step 5. Putting the roof together
- 7Step 6. Fitting the dormer front wall
- 8Steps 7 to 8: Cutting the wall, floor and door pieces and cutting the arched internal doorways
- 9Steps 9 to 10 Fixing the vertical side strips and assembling the walls, floors and doors
- 10Step 10 continued... Assembling the walls, floors, and doors
- 11Step 11. Making the spiral staircase
- 12Step 12. A bit of paint and that's that
Steps 7 to 8: Cutting the wall, floor and doorA horizontal framing member above the door/window opening. pieces and cutting the arched internal doorways
Step 7. Cutting the wall, floor, and door pieces
Ft and inch version:
From 1/2″ MDFA special type of tempered hardboard with a fine, smooth finish. MDF is used in cabinet making. boardA piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide., cut all the pieces to the dimensionsAny of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. given in the drawing below.
All of the pieces can be cut out of a 4ft x 4ft sheetAny broad, thin surface., as shown in the drawing below.
MetricMillimeter measurements. version:
From 12mm MDF board, cut all the pieces to the dimensions given in the drawing below.
All of the pieces can be cut out of a 1200mm x 1200mm sheet, as shown in the drawing below.
Step 8. Cutting the arched internal doorways
Ft and inch version:
Cut the internal door holes 2½” wide and 6½” high with an arched top (optional). SetHow much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. them back 1½” from the front end of the walls. This applies to all three internal walls.
Metric version:
Cut the internal door holes 62mm wide and 162mm high with an arched top (optional). Set them back 37mm from the front end of the walls. This applies to all three internal walls.
On page 8 of the purchased plans it states to cut both pieces 1a and 1b to an overall length of 29 inches. I think this length should be 26 inches to correspond with the 26 inches used to cut the long side of the eave soffit on page 7. After I got all of the roof pieces cut out I started to put it together and saw that pieces 1a and 1b were too long. Assuming I am correct and 1a and 1b should be 26 inches then my next question is, does the 14 3/4 measurement at the top of 1a and 1b have to be shortend by the same amount or does it stay the same? I am enjoying this project and will be able to not make silly mistakes when I build my second one as soon as I finish this one. I certainly am learning how to cut the 35 and 45 degree angles. The secret when using a skill saw is to always be able to see where the blade is cutting and not rely on the guide on the saw.
Buildeazy reply:
Thank you for pointing that out. There was a measurement error in Step 1. The long side of the eave soffit in Step 1 should be 29 inches (not 26 inches).
It has now been rectified.
Les Kenny
Here a some pictures of my finished doll house. As you can see I added some shutters to the windows. I want to give you some feedback of my experience doing this build.
1. When I had finished the build, the roof did not fit. I had to saw away part of the frieze board to make it fit. The reason for this was that in placing the frieze board in 2 inches from the outside edge of the frame only leaves 10 1/4 inch of space (14.25 minus 4 equals 10.25). The doll house is 9 inches wide plus the back (1/2 inch) plus the board added across the top front for stability (3/4 inch) which totals 10.25. To solve this problem as I build my second doll house, I am putting the frieze boards in by only 1 3/4 inches. This will allow plenty of clearance for the roof to fit.
2. If the two piece 3 pieces are cut as shown on page 6 of the plans they will not work since they are identical. I plan to move the lower piece 3 to the upper right hand corner of the board as a mirror image and I think it will work fine.
3. This one you are already aware of. That is the incorrect length ( 26 vs 29) on the first board I cut on page 7 of the plans.
4. On page 9 of the plans you show the inside of the dormer being trimmed for readiness for the front wall. This would be much easier if you marked the dormer on the front of the roof and trimmed out what is necessary prior to gluing the dormer in place.
Started my second doll house today and hope to have an easier time based on my experience of building my first one.
E. Stevens