Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
Hypertufa (in a sense) is a lightweight A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry..
In order to cover the top of the head with hypertufa I had to make something to hold it in place until it cured (How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade.). This involved covering the current structure with polythene (plastic) Any broad, thin surface. to The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. the hypertufa falling through the support structure, and also fixing a wall (form) around the sides to stop the hypertufa running over the sides.
I stapled and taped some polythene (plastic sheet, such as plastic rubbish bags) over the top of the head and pulled it tight.
Then I ran some tape over the polythene along the top of the inner support structure frame-work, and stapled that as well to ensure extra strength
Then I made a form around the sides of the head to contain the hypertufa (lightweight concrete).
I made the forms out of spare A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. that was 5/16″ (7mm) thick. The forms were discarded after use.
Below is the pattern for the temporary form pieces that went around the sides of the head.
The line spacings on the grid above represent 1″ (25mm).
Once cut, the form pieces were screwed to the sides of the head. The top of the forms sat a little over 1½” (40mm) higher than the sides of the head.
Note – release agent: Before any hypertufa was poured, I brushed release agent on the inside of the plywood form so that the hypertufa would not stick to the form. The release agent was a mixture of diesel and used car oil.