Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.4. Hypertufa
Hypertufa (in a sense) is a lightweight A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry..
Some expert advice: The success of hypertufa depends on the consistency of the mix and the amount of attention paid to the The hardening of concrete. The process of becoming hard or solid by cooling or drying or crystallization. In concrete application, the process in which mortar and concrete harden. The length of time is dependent upon the type of cement, mix proportion, required strength, size and shape of the concrete section, weather and future exposure conditions. The period may be 3 weeks or longer for lean concrete mixtures used in structures such as dams or it may be only a few days for richer mixes. Favorable curing temperatures range from 50 to 70 degrees F. Design strength is achieved in 28 days. process.
Okay! Having read stories about other people’s less than perfect hypertufa attempts resulting in cracked and crumbling end results, I decided to take the above advice very seriously.
My hypertufa mix
● 3 buckets of peat moss
● 2 buckets of perlite
● 2 buckets of A powdery type substance made from a mixture of earths materials such as limestone and shale, which is sintered (cause to become solid mass by heating without melting), ground, and mixed with small amounts of calcium sulphate and calcium carbonate. Cement is activated by water and when mixed with gravel and sand, forms concrete.
● 2 plus buckets of water (more or less)
The peat moss and the perlite was bought from a garden center and the cement from a building supply store.
Some safety stuff: Breathing in any of the above ingredients (except the water) is not good for your health. Wear a mask, goggles, gloves, and appropriate clothing. The ingredients are very light and any wind or mixing disturbance will cause the dust particles to float through the air.
The above dry ingredients were poured (carefully) into a wheelbarrow and mixed together with a spade.
Then the water was poured in slowly – about 1/2 of a bucket at a time – and the mixing continued.
It was mixed with the spade from underneath and folded over. Mixing and adding water continued until the mix was a uniform consistency: wet enough without puddling and able to be spread without crumbling.
Tip: A smaller spade or shovel is easier to work with than a bigger one.