Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.4. continued
Placing the hypertufa
How thick? – At least 1½” (40mm) thick.
By the way, the girl in the photos is one of my daughters, Angela, who enjoyed giving a helping hand from time to time.
We (she) commenced shovelling the hypertufa into the head form, and spread it around with a gloved hand.
At this stage it was just half filled – a layer about 1″ (25mm) thick.
Angela placed sheets of galvanized bird wire mesh on top of the (half filled) hypertufa.
The sheets of bird wire were cut to about 12″ (300mm) squares and slightly overlapped. If we’d used a full sized sheet it would have been too hard to achieve the dome shape.
Then a few hypertufa patties were placed on the bird wire to hold it down.
Notice in the photo that Angela is wearing good waterproof gloves. These are a must when working with cement-based applications due to the caustic nature of the beast (the cement, not Angela).
Then it was just a matter of topping up with hypertufa and smoothing it over with a gloved hand.
I realized then that the hypertufa finish would not be good enough as a final finish for the head. I was thinking that after an initial curing period I would add a skim coat of slurry – icing on the cake.