Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.4. continued
Hypertufa – The curing process
This is probably the most crucial segment of the hypertufa application.
Curing time – The longer hypertufa is left to cure (set) the better. I kept the hypertufa moist at all times during the curing process, which went on for ten days. It was easy to contain the moisture with a polythene (plastic) sheet covering the hypertufa.
Once the hypertufa had been poured, we waited about four hours until the mix had just firmed enough to allow a sheet of polythene (plastic) to cover it without damaging the mix.
Through that initial time we kept the hypertufa moist, mist spraying it a couple of times.
Why cover it with polythene?
As mentioned before, hypertufa must be kept moist during the curing process.
One of the main culprits that causes the hypertufa to dry out during the curing period is evaporation.
Obviously this is even more of a problem in hotter temperatures.
Enter the polythene cover –
By covering the hypertufa with polythene the moisture in the mix can’t evaporate because it can’t get out.
Therefore, all the drying out is from a chemical reaction that happens between the cement and the water called ‘hydration’.
I kept the hypertufa covered for a total of ten days. (Note that on day 4 I added a skim coat of slurry – see Step 1.5.).
Once a day I lifted the cover for a look-see. Everything was always still moist but I would give it another hose anyway ( a good old saturation) while the cover was off. Then I would put the cover back on again.
Sometimes in the heat of the day, the cover got pretty hot. But that didn’t seem to matter.