Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.5. Slurry
A skim coat of slurry
Slurry is a paste-like mixture of cement and water with maybe a little bit of fine sand if you want to add a bit of substance.
As mentioned on the previous page, I kept the hypertufa moist and covered with polythene for ten days (the curing period).
On day 4 of the curing period we added a skim coat of slurry.
Because the hypertufa was going through the curing period, it would adhere well to the slurry.
First Angela gave the hypertufa a bit of a brush to get rid if any loose stuff.
Then she mixed 3/4 bucket of cement, 1/4 bucket of fine sand, and added water as needed to a paste-like consistency.
And then she poured it onto the hypertufa.
She then spread the slurry about with a gloved hand and smoothed it off with a trowel.
The hypertufa had a roughish type texture and the slurry was like the icing on the cake.
The slurry was just thick enough to cover the rough texture of the hypertufa.
Once the slurry had been smoothed, we ensured that it stayed moist while we waited about three hours for it to firm enough to allow the sheet of polythene (plastic) to go back on.
Of course, firming times could vary greatly depending on climatic conditions.