Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
So! to recap the curing process
● The curing process lasted ten days.
● The hypertufa was kept moist at all times.
● The hypertufa was covered with plastic sheet to prevent evaporation.
● The hypertufa got hot at times, but that did not matter.
● The cover was lifted once or twice a day to ensure all was moist and to spray again.
● On day four the slurry was added.
● The cover was put back on and lifted once or twice a day to ensure all was moist and to spray again, and so on until the end of the curing period (day 10)
Note: Maybe the above curing procedure could have been a bit of an overkill, but it certainly worked.
Off with the formwork
That was easy enough to do: just a matter of undoing a few screws.
The form broke away cleanly because we had applied release agent to the form prior to pouring the hypertufa.
It was pleasing to see how the slurry-coated hypertufa looked at the end of the cure period and after the form was taken off. A successful pour.
Although the curing period took ten days, the time wasn’t wasted. I wasn’t sitting around for ten days scratching my nose waiting for the curing period to finish. I was getting on with other sections of the project.
Next on the agenda: The head side-covers and the crown