Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 2.1. continued
When the groves were cut we planed the adjacent area down to the same depth as the groves with an electric hand planer. It was then just a matter of sanding (and sanding, and sanding) to round the top of the grooves and get the look we wanted.
Alternative tools and cutting methods: We shaped the frame pieces using a circular power saw, an electric hand planer, and sand paper.
Alternative suggestions. A bench saw would have made it easier to cut the grooves which could have been made wider by double cutting. Also a bench saw could have cut the portion that for us needed three or four runs of the electric hand planer to achieve the same result.
A router could have been used to round the tops of the grooves, saving on a lot sanding.
Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
When all the framing members were shaped (corrugated bits and all) they were cut to length as follows:
● 6 @ 79″ (1975mm) with a 45° angle at one end.
● 3 @ 34¼” (856mm) with a 45° angle at both ends.
Note: There were still some pieces of shaped wood left over. They were used at a later stage.
Also the 11/16″ (18mm) plywood for the floor and back wall.
● 1 piece @ 36¼” (906mm) square
● 1 piece @ 34¼” x 79″ (856mm x 1975mm)