Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
I began by making up each individual wall frame.
Using the ‘shaped’ framing lumber (the wood with the corrugated bits) I made three identical wall frames: the front wall frame and the two side wall frames.
Each wall frame consisted of two vertical side members (studs) and a horizontal head. The lengths are given on the previous page.
I made up the wall frames on a flat surface.
It was just a matter of gluing and screwing the head piece to the two side pieces (studs).
I fixed two temporary plywood spreaders to the side studs to keep them parallel.
Each spreader was about 30″ (900mm) long x 12″ (300mm) wide. One was fixed near the top and one was fixed near the bottom.
On the front wall only, I had to rebate the inside-edge corners (vertically) on both sides of the wall. This was so that the front and side walls aligned to accommodate the 1″ (25mm) quarter-round pieces of wood that ran the length of the walls vertically.
Refer to the drawing fig 2.3 for details of the rebate size.
My rebate cut was 1/2″ (12mm) in x 1/2″ (12mm) deep, however your rebate cut might be a different size.
It depends on the actual thickness of the frame.
The drawing (fig 2.3) shows that (a)=1″ (25mm).
Using that formula, you will be able to work out the required rebate size.
I made the rebate down each side of the front wall frame with a circular power saw by setting the blade to the required depth and making one cut in along the back, and another cut in along the edge.