Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
I began by making up each individual wall frame.
Using the ‘shaped’ framing Any of the framing wood. (the Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees with the Having alternating ridges and grooves. bits) I made three identical wall frames: the front wall frame and the two side wall frames.
Each wall frame consisted of two Plumb, upright. side members (studs) and a Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. head. The lengths are given on the previous page.
I made up the wall frames on a flat surface.
It was just a matter of gluing and screwing the head piece to the two side pieces (studs).
I fixed two temporary A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. spreaders to the side studs to keep them Being of equal distance from each other at all points..
Each spreader was about 30″ (900mm) long x 12″ (300mm) wide. One was fixed near the top and one was fixed near the bottom.
On the front wall only, I had to An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. the inside-edge corners (vertically) on both sides of the wall. This was so that the front and side walls aligned to accommodate the 1″ (25mm) quarter-round pieces of wood that ran the length of the walls vertically.
Refer to the drawing fig 2.3 for details of the rebate size.
My rebate cut was 1/2″ (12mm) in x 1/2″ (12mm) deep, however your rebate cut might be a different size.
It depends on the actual thickness of the frame.
The drawing (fig 2.3) shows that (a)=1″ (25mm).
Using that formula, you will be able to work out the required rebate size.
I made the rebate down each side of the front wall frame with a circular power saw by setting the blade to the required depth and making one cut in along the back, and another cut in along the edge.