Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 3.1. The neck – making the box unit
Note: The plan image is scaled to fit in the page.
For a clearer view click on the plan image and it will open in another window where the measurements will be more legible.
Although some plans are shown at appropriate stages throughout the course of these instructions, the plans are also in a complete group in Chapter eight.
Out of ¾” (19mm) thick boards I ripped (cut lengthwise) two different size strips, 1 1/8;” (28mm) for the top rails and 1 3/8″ (35mm) for the bottom rails.
I ripped enough of each size to allow for the following:
For the top rails I cut 2 @ 34¼” (856mm) and 2 @ 32¾” (820mm).
For the bottom rails, the same – 2 @ 34¼” (856mm) and 2 @ 32¾” (820mm).
The corner posts
I cut four pieces of 2½” x 2½” (62mm x 62mm) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees to the length of 8¼” (206mm).
Making up the box unit
I lay two corner posts apart 32¾” (820mm) overall and fixed the top The top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence. to the top and the bottom rail to the bottom, creating an oblong frame 32¾” (820mm) x 8¼” (206mm). Then I made another, two in all.
I stood the above two frames on end and fixed the other appropriate rails (top and bottom) as per picture.